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Sigma 17-35 2.8-4 EX

Still testing, but this lens-sensor combination could use a FILTER (to diffuse it, even if it's just a UV filter, ND or VND that might work)...but the lens needs more SHARPNESS so the filter would need to mostly bloom the light, versus reducing the sharpness.

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Nikon 50 1.8 D + Vivitar 2x MACRO

These are initial settings for use in my product studio (it's for eBay products on a white background) and so I'm not going to say these settings are good for everything, yet. Also, note that these settings are specific to using a very old Vivitar 2X MACRO teleconverter (Nikon F, AI vintage). STUDIO FLASH NOTES: To trigger the studio flash, we're firing a little flash from the hot shoe (pointing to the side) and using 1/160 shutter speed (to sync with flash) and using ISO 400 and an aperture value of f/11 (and the aperture is manually controlled on the lens barrel).

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Minolta AF 50 1.7

-1 HUE Wow. With these CUSTOM SETTINGS, the image gets one of the highest "Real Ratings" I've ever given to a lens-sensor combination! The ONLY thing that is off is that there is TOO MUCH RED in the image (but the GH5 is pretty consistently off in that area, so I'm fixing it with a LUT).

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Sigma 17-35 2.8-4 EX

-2 HUE Needing to make a LUT (there is a few things wrong with the SOOC image) but it is worth it, because now I have a Nikon F mount lens (with the manual aperture control) I can use on my Kipon SHIFT adapter (which has no aperture control for newer Nikon G lenses that don't have a manual aperture control ring)...The only bad thing about this shift adapter is it doesn't allow this lens to focus to infinity, so I can only use it at f/16 when I want everything to be in focus, such as for outdoor work (landscapes, etc.)

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Tamron 10-24 3.5-4.5 LD

-1 HUE (was -0 but need -1 because there is the characteristic GH5 too much magenta (in shadows) stuff going on) FOR STILLS (SOOC Real Estate): Tamron 10-24 3.5-4.5 LD Panasonic GH5 NATURAL -4+2+4+1-1 HS -3+3 (and UNSHARP MASK at 22 2.2 2)

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Sigma 18-50 2.8 EX

-1 HUE

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Koah 50 1.4

NOTE: Use -1 HUE. I think the final settings look good at most aperture values (and that's not easy)! It's interesting that it's actually sharper at f/2.8 than it is at f/8. At f/1.4 it's softer, but it looks really good, and that is where I think I would shoot (on this 2x crop, M43 sensor size) for video portraits, to have the right amount of background blur, etc. I also really like the amount of NOISE that is left in the image, as it kind of looks like film grain!

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Koah 35 1.2

NOTE: Use -1 HUE. So...you COULD use the same exact settings as the Koah 50 1.4 (same company/manufacturer, etc.) and it is almost perfect, and I would do that if you need to change lenses, and are in a hurry (I might actually make a LUT that can be used for BOTH). However, to get the very best SOOC settings, I am adding a little more NOISE REDUCTION to the in-camera settings for the 35 1.2 version. This lens is one of the best f/1.2 lenses I've tested by the way...though every lens I have tested has been a low-budget lens, so that's not saying much (the others were a Canon FL 58 1.2, and a Porst 50 1.2).

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Nikon 50 1.8 D

Not sure if I should be testing this (because if I drop it, the IBIS sensor could hit the speedbooster optic...like happened on my G85, which scratched sensor)!

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Nikon 50 1.8 D + Vivitar 2x MACRO

It needs -1 HUE. STUDIO Settings: WHITE BALANCE: Flash SHUTTER: 1/160 CONTRAST: +3 SHARPNESS: +1 NOISE: +4 COLOR: -0 HUE: -0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW: -2+3