Natural
"PHOTO STYLE"
-1
CONTRAST
+1
SHARPNESS
+5
+2
-3+3
HIGHLIGHT SHADOW
OFF
iDYNAMIC
OFF
0-255
LUMINANCE LEVEL
Unsharp Mask*
ADOBE
POST-PRODUCTION
AMOUNT
?
RADIUS
?
THRESHOLD
?
Blur / Sharpen
DAVINCI RESOLVE
POST-PRODUCTION
LENS @FULL WIDE
LENS @MID-ZOOM
LENS @FULL TELE
REAL RATINGS
After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras).
CONTRAST
A
IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"?
SHARPNESS
B
IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"?
NOISE
C
IS THE NOISE "REAL"?
COLOR
B
IS THE COLOR "REAL"?
*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).
NOTES:
NOTE: Use -1 HUE.
So...you COULD use the same exact settings as the Koah 50 1.4 (same company/manufacturer, etc.) and it is almost perfect, and I would do that if you need to change lenses, and are in a hurry (I might actually make a LUT that can be used for BOTH). However, to get the very best SOOC settings, I am adding a little more NOISE REDUCTION to the in-camera settings for the 35 1.2 version. This lens is one of the best f/1.2 lenses I've tested by the way...though every lens I have tested has been a low-budget lens, so that's not saying much (the others were a Canon FL 58 1.2, and a Porst 50 1.2).
My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.
