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SILVERLIGHT

PHOTO & VIDEO

CO.

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Natural

"PHOTO STYLE"

-3

CONTRAST

-2

SHARPNESS

+3

NOISE

-1

COLOR

-4+3

HIGHLIGHT SHADOW

OFF

iDYNAMIC

OFF

iRESOLUTION

0-255

LUMINANCE LEVEL

Unsharp Mask*

ADOBE
POST-PRODUCTION

AMOUNT

33

RADIUS

2.2

THRESHOLD

1

Blur / Sharpen

DAVINCI RESOLVE
POST-PRODUCTION

LENS @FULL WIDE

 LENS @MID-ZOOM

LENS @FULL TELE

 REAL  RATINGS

After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras).

Greyscale Landscape

CONTRAST

C

 IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? 

Black and White Building

SHARPNESS

D

 IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? 

Lucid

NOISE

B

 IS THE NOISE "REAL"? 

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COLOR

C

 IS THE COLOR "REAL"? 

*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).

NOTES: 

-2 HUE

Needing to make a LUT (there is a few things wrong with the SOOC image) but it is worth it, because now I have a Nikon F mount lens (with the manual aperture control) I can use on my Kipon SHIFT adapter (which has no aperture control for newer Nikon G lenses that don't have a manual aperture control ring)...The only bad thing about this shift adapter is it doesn't allow this lens to focus to infinity, so I can only use it at f/16 when I want everything to be in focus, such as for outdoor work (landscapes, etc.)

My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

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