(None)

LENS: Sigma APO Macro 70-300 4-5.6

Panasonic G85

First off, there are a number of lenses with a similar external physical design to this lens, and so far this one is the best (both optically and in other ways). I tested one of the similar versions, a Quantaray with with almost identical lens markings, but printed in green. The Quantaray version did not have the MACRO function, nor did it have the APO designation, though there is more than one version of the Quantaray out there (and one with an LDO designation, which might be the same as the Sigma APO designation, but I need to test that). Second, even though I have not tested (at the time of this writing) all of the other versions, so far this is the best one (of this vintage). So, I am referring to just this physical, external lens design, not earlier or later versions of the lens. The main reason I like this version, is the optics are better (on my test with the G85) and because it has the MACRO function. One thing I was really impressed by was how the CUSTOM SETTINGS were able to render an image that has enough SHARPNESS to accurately pull focus manually (yes, the back screen on this camera is pretty accurate too) so that's good! Overall, these CUSTOM SETTINGS bring the image (video or JPEG stills) to a good starting point, but it will need a LUT to finish it, and can't be used SOOC (Straight Out Of Camera).

(None)

LENS: Quantaray Tech-10 70-300 4-5.6

Panasonic G85

This lens was made by Sigma (but the version I tested was a Quantaray, one with green lettering). There are a number of versions of the 70-300 from Sigma that LOOK very similar, but there are a couple of differences, and a few ways to identify this version. First of all, this is not the MACRO version, and there is no MACRO switch (though it actually has the same little square panel where the macro switch is on some of the other models). Second, it is not the LDO version (Low Dispersion Optic version). So, is this version of the 70-300 lens a good lens? Well, I tested a very similar Sigma APO version on the same day (with the same camera, the G85) and the optics on the APO version were a lot better. I tested the MACRO version of the Sigma APO, which also made me not want to recommend this non-macro version, because it's just much more convenient to have macro available, if and when you need it. So, these CUSTOM SETTINGS do help make this lens better on the Panasonic LUMIX G85, but I do not recommend picking up this version if you can get either the MACRO version, or the Sigma APO version (I'm not sure if the Quantaray LDO is the same as the Sigma APO, as I haven't tested the LDO version of this lens yet).

(None)

LUMIX S 18-40 4.5-6.3

I'm very impressed with this camera so far, but it's the first LUMIX full-frame camera I've been able to test, so it's been pretty interesting (after testing so many Micro Four Thirds bodies, which I still like). If you've used the LUTs and CUSTOM SETTINGS for the other cameras we've tested, you will feel right at home with our process...but this has the option to use REAL-TIME LUTs (so we are going to have to create some new procedures to make sure these settings can work, with or without REAL-TIME LUT)...more information to come! For the CINEPEER Weebill 3E 1. Make sure to open lens before calibrating gimbal 2. Make sure to flip out the screen (on S9) before calibrating 3. I mounted the S9 ALL THE WAY BACK on camera plate 4. The plate is positioned at 1.5 (on plate rail, for THIS LENS) 5. There are other adjustments (had to mark with a pen, for this lens)

(None)

Minolta AF 28-85 3.5-4.5

Still testing, but so far not a good lens for this sensor...

CPL

Rokinon 24 3.5 Tilt Shift

This was my second test of this lens-sensor combination, and last time I was using the NATURAL profile, but I found that the characteristics of this lens (color rendering, etc.) are working better with CINELIKE D2 (so that's what I use now). My use case for this lens is focused on architectural content. I'll need to create a Lightroom preset (for processing bracketed still photos) as well, because that is the traditional workflow...but I'm kind of interested in seeing if I can be a little bit innovative, and try out the real-time LUT option as well :-)

(None)

Quantaray 35-70 3.5-4.5

I am pretty sure this is a Sigma lens (based on the identical physical design, with minor differences in the rubber grip design...and the bright green lens identification lettering). This is only my second test with the LUMIX S9, and I must say these results are really good, especially for a lens that is not well spoken of, thanks to people judging the lens by the reviews people wrote a long time ago, when the lens was used mostly on film cameras.

CPL

Samyang 18-28 4-4.5

Stills were taken from video at: 6K, 30p, 4:2:0, 10-bit, LongGOP, LPCM, 200Mbps This was my first lens test with the Panasonic LUMIX S9, and so I'm still trying to figure out the best way to do these tests (this was done WITHOUT the real-time LUT function, so I may do another test starting with the RAW still image, then make the LUT, then figure out the remainder of the settings...not sure what the workflow is going to be, yet). I think I should test again, with -1 SHARPNESS.

(None)

Promaster 70-300 4-5.6 LD

Ok, so I'm getting used to doing tests on the G95...and this was only my 3rd test, but I'm already seeing the potential of this sensor. First of all (and I say this a lot) I have to say that image this sensor produces is MUCH different than the G85 (and GX85) and I'm getting close to saying it really is better...but the approach to the custom settings is a lot different (will explain more in later, in a BLOG post). So then, the CUSTOM SETTINGS specifically for this lens are working pretty well, and creates an image that is not perfect SOOC, but it is a really good starting point, to add a mild finishing LUT later. I've been noticing that G95 lets you push the HIGHLIGHT SHADOW curve a lot farther than the G85, without it looking wierd (the G85 goes into that fake HDR look a lot of the time, when you push it beyond -3+3 in the curves).

(None)

Nikon 50 1.8 D + Vivitar 2x MACRO

These are initial settings for use in my product studio (it's for eBay products on a white background) and so I'm not going to say these settings are good for everything, yet. Also, note that these settings are specific to using a very old Vivitar 2X MACRO teleconverter (Nikon F, AI vintage). STUDIO FLASH NOTES: To trigger the studio flash, we're firing a little flash from the hot shoe (pointing to the side) and using 1/160 shutter speed (to sync with flash) and using ISO 200 and an aperture value of f/8 (and the aperture is manually controlled on the lens barrel).

(None)

Minolta MD 28-70 3.5-4.8

These CUSTOM SETTINGS actually produce an image that is good almost SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) and yet with a bit more CONTRAST than is REAL...but it might actually work well when uploading to YouTube (which seems to change things a little). One thing that is interesting, is this lens has so much CONTRAST it's pretty impressive but not realistic...These settings correct for that, and the result is a pretty good image, but the lens is not very sharp, and so I added SHARPNESS to make it look more realistic (and did other things too). It also has an interesting HIGHLIGHT SHADOW curve applied, and it was difficult to figure it out to start with. In the end, I may not keep this lens, but it's not because of the image quality, but because I've been figuring out that, if I'm buying full frame lenses (like this one) to potentially be used both on full frame AND Micro Four Thirds, then it really needs to start at around 24mm (or wider) to be good tool for me.