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SILVERLIGHT

PHOTO & VIDEO

CO.

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Natural

"PHOTO STYLE"

+4

CONTRAST

+5

SHARPNESS

-2

NOISE

-0

COLOR

-0-0

HIGHLIGHT SHADOW

OFF

iDYNAMIC

OFF

iRESOLUTION

16-255

LUMINANCE LEVEL

Unsharp Mask*

ADOBE
POST-PRODUCTION

AMOUNT

?

RADIUS

?

THRESHOLD

?

Blur / Sharpen

DAVINCI RESOLVE
POST-PRODUCTION

LENS @FULL WIDE

NA

 LENS @MID-ZOOM

NA

LENS @FULL TELE

NA

 REAL  RATINGS

After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras).

Greyscale Landscape

CONTRAST

?

 IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? 

Black and White Building

SHARPNESS

?

 IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? 

Lucid

NOISE

?

 IS THE NOISE "REAL"? 

Too-Much-Bokeh.jpg

COLOR

?

 IS THE COLOR "REAL"? 

*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).

NOTES: 

These are initial settings for use in my product studio (it's for eBay products on a white background) and so I'm not going to say these settings are good for everything, yet. Also, note that these settings are specific to using a very old Vivitar 2X MACRO teleconverter (Nikon F, AI vintage).

STUDIO FLASH NOTES:
To sync with the studio flash, we're using 1/160 shutter speed, and then ISO 400 and f/11 (aperture manually controlled on the lens).

My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

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