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Looks good so far... Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Tamron 75-300 4-5.6 LD + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST +2 SHARPNESS +2 NOISE -2 COLOR Standard HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Looks good so far... My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

This is a decent lens-sensor combo, but the propensity of this sensor to oversaturate color (in combination with a lens that's not super balanced or accurate to begin with) makes color accuracy a difficult task, which makes it tough to match other lenses/sensors to. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 18-70 + ADAPTER (Non-Optical Adapter) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST -0 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -1 COLOR -1+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: This is a decent lens-sensor combo, but the propensity of this sensor to oversaturate color (in combination with a lens that's not super balanced or accurate to begin with) makes color accuracy a difficult task, which makes it tough to match other lenses/sensors to. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

There is not much SHARPNESS in this lens to start with, so on this sensor I have to add some in the settings, and it will certainly need some post-production SHARPNESS added as well. It will also need more COLOR, but after working with this a bit I think it is at what I consider a good place for footage you are capturing to start (though I prefer settings be so good they can be used SOOC, of course). I started out with custom settings that had a little bit too much COLOR, but I had to tone it down as it is a strange lens to find a good place to set the COLOR settings to, as the COLOR is not very accurate (which makes even the white balance hard to figure out). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Tamron 10-24 3.5-4.5 LD ADAPTER: Nikon F to M43 (No Optic) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST +3 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE +1 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR F IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: There is not much SHARPNESS in this lens to start with, so on this sensor I have to add some in the settings, and it will certainly need some post-production SHARPNESS added as well. It will also need more COLOR, but after working with this a bit I think it is at what I consider a good place for footage you are capturing to start (though I prefer settings be so good they can be used SOOC, of course). I started out with custom settings that had a little bit too much COLOR, but I had to tone it down as it is a strange lens to find a good place to set the COLOR settings to, as the COLOR is not very accurate (which makes even the white balance hard to figure out). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Test done, and the tones are good, color is a little inaccurate... Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Tamron 75-300 4-5.6 LD + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic GH4 CineLike D "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST +3 SHARPNESS +1 NOISE -0 COLOR 0 / 0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Test done, and the tones are good, color is a little inaccurate... My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Initial tests done. Need a LUT. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 70-300 4-5.6 D + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic GH4 CineLike D "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST +4 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -0 COLOR 0 / 0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Initial tests done. Need a LUT. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

It's amazing that this lens-sensor combination is almost useable at -0-0-0-0 (default settings) but I worked with the settings further because it has a strange problem of rendering a lot of colorless black in the mid to shadow areas (I know, it seems like it would just be the shadows). I'm not completely happy with these settings, and I don't know if this lens is something I'd recommend. (It also has a sharp aperture coupler that has almost cut my hand a few times). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] AUTO Mamiya-Sekor 55 1.4 + HELICOID Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE +1 COLOR -3+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS D IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR F IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: It's amazing that this lens-sensor combination is almost useable at -0-0-0-0 (default settings) but I worked with the settings further because it has a strange problem of rendering a lot of colorless black in the mid to shadow areas (I know, it seems like it would just be the shadows). I'm not completely happy with these settings, and I don't know if this lens is something I'd recommend. (It also has a sharp aperture coupler that has almost cut my hand a few times). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

[TEST STARTED, but not complete] Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Minolta AF 50 1.7 + ADAPTER (Non-Optical, NO BOOST) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -1 COLOR -1+1 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS ? IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE ? IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR ? IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [TEST STARTED, but not complete] My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

NOTE: Use -1 HUE. So...you COULD use the same exact settings as the Koah 50 1.4 (same company/manufacturer, etc.) and it is almost perfect, and I would do that if you need to change lenses, and are in a hurry (I might actually make a LUT that can be used for BOTH). However, to get the very best SOOC settings, I am adding a little more NOISE REDUCTION to the in-camera settings for the 35 1.2 version. This lens is one of the best f/1.2 lenses I've tested by the way...though every lens I have tested has been a low-budget lens, so that's not saying much (the others were a Canon FL 58 1.2, and a Porst 50 1.2). Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: None (BARE) Koah 35 1.2 ADAPTER: None (Native Mount) Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE +2 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: NOTE: Use -1 HUE. So...you COULD use the same exact settings as the Koah 50 1.4 (same company/manufacturer, etc.) and it is almost perfect, and I would do that if you need to change lenses, and are in a hurry (I might actually make a LUT that can be used for BOTH). However, to get the very best SOOC settings, I am adding a little more NOISE REDUCTION to the in-camera settings for the 35 1.2 version. This lens is one of the best f/1.2 lenses I've tested by the way...though every lens I have tested has been a low-budget lens, so that's not saying much (the others were a Canon FL 58 1.2, and a Porst 50 1.2). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Nice...This lens looks a LOT better (with this camera) on the Viltrox NF-M43x focal reducer (even though it "reduces" the optical quality, ha, ha!) Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 50 1.8 D + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR Standard HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Nice...This lens looks a LOT better (with this camera) on the Viltrox NF-M43x focal reducer (even though it "reduces" the optical quality, ha, ha!) My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Use -0 COLOR for sports photography shoot... Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: Promaster HGX UV Canon 70-200 2.8 + BOOST (Metabones XL .64x) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST -4 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -1 COLOR -2, +2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS ? IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR ? IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Use -0 COLOR for sports photography shoot... My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Okay, this lens is good. Now, to be sure you have the right lens (when you use these settings) the version I tested was the WHITE version (well, off-white because the lens is old) but the exterior is white with black rubber areas (focus and zoom rings). So then, let me continue by saying WOW, it's a pretty good lens! I was actually not expecting much, because I had just finished testing another budget white lens from this same vintage (a 1990s 100-400 from Promaster) which was not good. As a side note, there seem to be a lot of good lenses in the 70-300 focal length range, but every vintage 100-300 and 100-400 has been REALLY bad. I've heard the Panasonic 100-400 (by Leica) is really good (not affordable enough for me to test at this time) and the footage I've seen from the Panasonic 100-300 looks good too...but for the older lenses, I only trust the 70-300 focal length now (but only from the early AF generation/80s & 90s and on, but not older). I putting NONE in the post-production sharpening settings because I don't think it needs any (which is good)! Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: None Vivitar Series 1 70-300 4.5-5.6 ADAPTER: Nikon F to M43 (Non-Optical) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE +1 COLOR -1+1 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Okay, this lens is good. Now, to be sure you have the right lens (when you use these settings) the version I tested was the WHITE version (well, off-white because the lens is old) but the exterior is white with black rubber areas (focus and zoom rings). So then, let me continue by saying WOW, it's a pretty good lens! I was actually not expecting much, because I had just finished testing another budget white lens from this same vintage (a 1990s 100-400 from Promaster) which was not good. As a side note, there seem to be a lot of good lenses in the 70-300 focal length range, but every vintage 100-300 and 100-400 has been REALLY bad. I've heard the Panasonic 100-400 (by Leica) is really good (not affordable enough for me to test at this time) and the footage I've seen from the Panasonic 100-300 looks good too...but for the older lenses, I only trust the 70-300 focal length now (but only from the early AF generation/80s & 90s and on, but not older). I putting NONE in the post-production sharpening settings because I don't think it needs any (which is good)! My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

It needs a LUT, but the results (before making the LUT) are so bad in so many ways, I'm not sure this lens is even worth using. It might be surprising to some for me to say that part of the problem (not all) is this lens has too much SHARPNESS for this sensor (GH5)...but it doesn't stop there (there are lots of ugly things about this lens, such as ugly, ugly bokeh/background blur and other weird optical expressions). Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: None (BARE) Panasonic 14-42 iii ADAPTER: None (Native) Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -1 COLOR -4+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT 49 RADIUS 1.2 THRESHOLD 77 Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR D IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: It needs a LUT, but the results (before making the LUT) are so bad in so many ways, I'm not sure this lens is even worth using. It might be surprising to some for me to say that part of the problem (not all) is this lens has too much SHARPNESS for this sensor (GH5)...but it doesn't stop there (there are lots of ugly things about this lens, such as ugly, ugly bokeh/background blur and other weird optical expressions). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.