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[NOTE: The settings with the +BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x) added are a LOT different (you might expect it to be predictable, but every optical situation is different) and needs custom settings.] This is a really amazing vintage lens! It is very vulnerable to lens flare (so if you want to control it, use lens shade, etc.) but it matches this sensor pretty well and it needed very few changes. The adjustments were important though, as it really helped adding a little CONTRAST, SHARPNESS and NOISE REDUCTION (each of them for controlling the micro-contrast and reducing the digital look of the image, etc.) While the final result is not perfectly "REAL" (especially the inaccurate color) I think it looks very "cinematic" and that a lot of people (who like the "film look") will really, REALLY like the image this lens-sensor combo creates. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Kiron 28-85 2.8-3.8 +BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" +2 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS -1 NOISE -0 COLOR -1+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Kiron 28-85 2.8-3.8 VILTROX Panasonic G85 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Kiron 28-85 2.8-3.8 VILTROX Panasonic G85 NATURAL +2+1-1-0 HS -1+2 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [NOTE: The settings with the +BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x) added are a LOT different (you might expect it to be predictable, but every optical situation is different) and needs custom settings.] This is a really amazing vintage lens! It is very vulnerable to lens flare (so if you want to control it, use lens shade, etc.) but it matches this sensor pretty well and it needed very few changes. The adjustments were important though, as it really helped adding a little CONTRAST, SHARPNESS and NOISE REDUCTION (each of them for controlling the micro-contrast and reducing the digital look of the image, etc.) While the final result is not perfectly "REAL" (especially the inaccurate color) I think it looks very "cinematic" and that a lot of people (who like the "film look") will really, REALLY like the image this lens-sensor combo creates. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

GoPro HERO4 Silver [UNFILTERED] GoPro HERO4 Silver ADD-ONS: None LENS MOD: None "Linear" FIELD OF VIEW COLOR MODE Flat SHARPNESS Low WHITE BALANCE Native EV COMP -1.5 SHUTTER AUTO ISO MINIMUM 100 ISO MAXIMUM 800 Published: March 25, 2022 at 10:40:58 PM I don't know why this older camera looked SO much better (than the HERO7) initially. I think it may be due to excessive NR (Noise Reduction) on the HERO7. The way I worked around it on the 7 was to set the ISO MIN and ISO MAX to 200 (for some reason that produced less NR artifacts). NOTE: I am in the process of working on a custom LUT for this camera, but the newer GoPro models will be my priority at this moment (I will get to it, though). GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

These are initial settings for use in my product studio (it's for eBay products on a white background) and so I'm not going to say these settings are good for everything, yet. Also, note that these settings are specific to using a very old Vivitar 2X MACRO teleconverter (Nikon F, AI vintage). STUDIO FLASH NOTES: To sync with the studio flash, we're using 1/160 shutter speed, and then ISO 400 and f/11 (aperture manually controlled on the lens). Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: None (Bare) Nikon 50 1.8 D Vivitar 2X MACRO Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" +4 CONTRAST +5 SHARPNESS -2 NOISE -0 COLOR -0-0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE NA LENS @MID-ZOOM NA LENS @FULL TELE NA REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS ? IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE ? IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR ? IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: These are initial settings for use in my product studio (it's for eBay products on a white background) and so I'm not going to say these settings are good for everything, yet. Also, note that these settings are specific to using a very old Vivitar 2X MACRO teleconverter (Nikon F, AI vintage). STUDIO FLASH NOTES: To sync with the studio flash, we're using 1/160 shutter speed, and then ISO 400 and f/11 (aperture manually controlled on the lens). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

[Vintage lens, and the condition may vary.] This is the "push pull" type of lens, and so I was initially not too excited to test, or recommend it, but this copy didn't have any issues with zoom creep (even when I was pointing the camera upward at birds!) Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 80-200 4 AIS + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +2 NOISE +1 COLOR -2+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [Vintage lens, and the condition may vary.] This is the "push pull" type of lens, and so I was initially not too excited to test, or recommend it, but this copy didn't have any issues with zoom creep (even when I was pointing the camera upward at birds!) My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Wow...this works, without many corrections (on the G85 sensor). This is probably the 3rd easiest lens-sensor combo I've ever calibrated on the Panasonic G85 (the others were the vintage Vivitar 70-210 3.5, and the Nikon AF-D 50 1.4, both of which could be used, in the NATURAL picture profile, with no settings adjustments). To me, success is when the final image looks REAL, and with these settings, this lens makes a really good image on this camera. All I had to do was add a bit of NOISE REDUCTION (to help highlight rolloff, not for noise issues) and then to add a very slight HIGHLIGHT SHADOW correction, but you could go without it (if you want a slightly more contrasty shot than the scene really was). The only issue might be that it needs a little bit more SHARPNESS added during post-production, but I think these settings are a pretty good starting point. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Rokinon Cine 85 T1.5 Nikon F to M43 Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST -0 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -1 COLOR -0+1 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR A IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Wow...this works, without many corrections (on the G85 sensor). This is probably the 3rd easiest lens-sensor combo I've ever calibrated on the Panasonic G85 (the others were the vintage Vivitar 70-210 3.5, and the Nikon AF-D 50 1.4, both of which could be used, in the NATURAL picture profile, with no settings adjustments). To me, success is when the final image looks REAL, and with these settings, this lens makes a really good image on this camera. All I had to do was add a bit of NOISE REDUCTION (to help highlight rolloff, not for noise issues) and then to add a very slight HIGHLIGHT SHADOW correction, but you could go without it (if you want a slightly more contrasty shot than the scene really was). The only issue might be that it needs a little bit more SHARPNESS added during post-production, but I think these settings are a pretty good starting point. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

IMPORTANT: One thing to note about the camera is that it really needs an ND filter when used OUTDOORS...but for some strange optical reason, it doesn't work with a VND (variable ND). It's interesting and somewhat distressing, but at the longer telephoto focal lengths a VND filter makes the image look so bad, you would have to try it yourself to believe it! It's even more interesting that a similar thing happens with a lot of the 70-300 lenses I've tested (also at and near the long end of the zoom range). My theory is it has something to do with the enormous amount of space between the optics when the lens is in the extended telephoto position. The solution I've found is to use a straight ND filter, and ND8 has been the best strength. TIP: If you publish your videos to YouTube, use the below settings (for Davinci Resolve) to make it look REAL (YouTube strips out CONTRAST AND COLOR as of the date of this note). YouTube SHADOW DIP (for Davinci Resolve): This helps make SHADOWS more accurate on YouTube: 1. Create a new node 2. Go to Primaries 3. Enter -12.30 for Shad (Shadow) YouTube COLOR BUMP (for Davinci Resolve): This helps make COLOR more accurate on YouTube: 1. Create a new node 2. Go to Sat vs. Sat. (In Curves) 3. Drag shadows (left) dot to 1.23 4. Drag highlights (right) dot to 1.23 UPDATE 2: Now testing with Gobe ND8...and it's again interesting how it really changes things. The first thing I'm trying to fix is that the ND8 filter punches the shadows in (at any exposure) and is making them relatively darker than they should be (though this can be a good thing, if you're uploading directly to YouTube with the current compression scheme they have). Still working on these settings... UPDATE: I’ve been working on getting my FZ1000 to look realistic, using SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) settings, and I’m pretty happy with what these settings now (and it’s REALLY EASY TO REMEMBER). These settings are mostly for 4K PHOTO mode use, so I'm also doing this so I can either use 4K PHOTO mode to grab stills, or to shoot video and be able to use it without doing color grading (though it may need a little sharpness adding in Davinci Resolve, my video editing software of choice…also super good for color grading). Note that the smaller sensor on this camera produces a little bit more NOISE than I would consider perfect, but it's not bad if you look at it as kind of an organic "film look". (FIRST) NOTE: This current test is for when you're NOT using a filter. The settings I had posted before were for using a B+W F-PRO UV filter, and I really prefer the tests with that filter (settings still available by searching on my website) but then it occurred to me today, that some people may not be able to easily get that filter. So far, this test is coming out worse, because using the filter was improving the micro contrast (it smoothed the highlight rolloff and did other good things). These settings are pretty good, but if you can get a B+W F-PRO UV filter, I think this camera works better with one. SHARPENING SETTINGS (for Davinci Resolve): @Full "WIDE" = .47 ? @Mid "TIGHT" = .46 ? @Full "TELE" = .43 ? I should also note that I've found ISO 200 to create the most real-looking image (maybe it's the "native ISO"?) So, if you can use ISO 200, I do recommend it (even over 125 and 160, even though they're lower, etc.) Also, the image degrades noticeably above ISO 400, though I sometimes go up to ISO 800 when needed, but be aware that it's going to look like it has more "film grain" (which isn't always bad, but it won't match your other footage, if the other footage was shot at a lower ISO). Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: Gobe ND8 Leica 25-400 2.8-4.0 No Adapter (Integrated Lens) Panasonic FZ1000 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -2 COLOR -1+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE .47 LENS @MID-ZOOM .46 LENS @FULL TELE .43 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS ? IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE ? IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR ? IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: IMPORTANT: One thing to note about the camera is that it really needs an ND filter when used OUTDOORS...but for some strange optical reason, it doesn't work with a VND (variable ND). It's interesting and somewhat distressing, but at the longer telephoto focal lengths a VND filter makes the image look so bad, you would have to try it yourself to believe it! It's even more interesting that a similar thing happens with a lot of the 70-300 lenses I've tested (also at and near the long end of the zoom range). My theory is it has something to do with the enormous amount of space between the optics when the lens is in the extended telephoto position. The solution I've found is to use a straight ND filter, and ND8 has been the best strength. TIP: If you publish your videos to YouTube, use the below settings (for Davinci Resolve) to make it look REAL (YouTube strips out CONTRAST AND COLOR as of the date of this note). YouTube SHADOW DIP (for Davinci Resolve): This helps make SHADOWS more accurate on YouTube: 1. Create a new node 2. Go to Primaries 3. Enter -12.30 for Shad (Shadow) YouTube COLOR BUMP (for Davinci Resolve): This helps make COLOR more accurate on YouTube: 1. Create a new node 2. Go to Sat vs. Sat. (In Curves) 3. Drag shadows (left) dot to 1.23 4. Drag highlights (right) dot to 1.23 UPDATE 2: Now testing with Gobe ND8...and it's again interesting how it really changes things. The first thing I'm trying to fix is that the ND8 filter punches the shadows in (at any exposure) and is making them relatively darker than they should be (though this can be a good thing, if you're uploading directly to YouTube with the current compression scheme they have). Still working on these settings... UPDATE: I’ve been working on getting my FZ1000 to look realistic, using SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) settings, and I’m pretty happy with what these settings now (and it’s REALLY EASY TO REMEMBER). These settings are mostly for 4K PHOTO mode use, so I'm also doing this so I can either use 4K PHOTO mode to grab stills, or to shoot video and be able to use it without doing color grading (though it may need a little sharpness adding in Davinci Resolve, my video editing software of choice…also super good for color grading). Note that the smaller sensor on this camera produces a little bit more NOISE than I would consider perfect, but it's not bad if you look at it as kind of an organic "film look". (FIRST) NOTE: This current test is for when you're NOT using a filter. The settings I had posted before were for using a B+W F-PRO UV filter, and I really prefer the tests with that filter (settings still available by searching on my website) but then it occurred to me today, that some people may not be able to easily get that filter. So far, this test is coming out worse, because using the filter was improving the micro contrast (it smoothed the highlight rolloff and did other good things). These settings are pretty good, but if you can get a B+W F-PRO UV filter, I think this camera works better with one. SHARPENING SETTINGS (for Davinci Resolve): @Full "WIDE" = .47 ? @Mid "TIGHT" = .46 ? @Full "TELE" = .43 ? I should also note that I've found ISO 200 to create the most real-looking image (maybe it's the "native ISO"?) So, if you can use ISO 200, I do recommend it (even over 125 and 160, even though they're lower, etc.) Also, the image degrades noticeably above ISO 400, though I sometimes go up to ISO 800 when needed, but be aware that it's going to look like it has more "film grain" (which isn't always bad, but it won't match your other footage, if the other footage was shot at a lower ISO). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

This lens is legendary, and I have been wanting to test it for a while. I did rent it many, many years ago (when using a Panasonic G5) but I did not know about custom (lens-sensor specific) camera settings. This combination is going to need a LUT to finalize, for sure. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 17-35 2.8 D ADAPTER: Nikon F to M43 Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST +2 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE +1 COLOR -4+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR D IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: This lens is legendary, and I have been wanting to test it for a while. I did rent it many, many years ago (when using a Panasonic G5) but I did not know about custom (lens-sensor specific) camera settings. This combination is going to need a LUT to finalize, for sure. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

[Note: This also is using an M42 screw mount to Nikon F adapter, in addition to the Nikon F to M43 SHIFT adapter noted.] I will have to admit this lens has a lot of character but it, like so many of these vintage lenses, is inconsistent in terms of how it renders light. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Pentax Super-Takumar 50 1.4 ii + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST +4 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -1 COLOR OFF HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [Note: This also is using an M42 screw mount to Nikon F adapter, in addition to the Nikon F to M43 SHIFT adapter noted.] I will have to admit this lens has a lot of character but it, like so many of these vintage lenses, is inconsistent in terms of how it renders light. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Still testing, but I think I like where these settings are, so far! Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: None (BARE) Nikon 50 1.8 D ADAPTER: Nikon F (Non-Optical) Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE +1 COLOR -4+4 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Still testing, but I think I like where these settings are, so far! My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

(Sold GH4, so only did a preliminary test...if you try, let me know what you think!) Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Minolta MD 50 1.7 +ADAPTER (Non-Optical, NO BOOST) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST -4 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -0 COLOR -1+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS ? IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE ? IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR ? IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: (Sold GH4, so only did a preliminary test...if you try, let me know what you think!) My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

OVERVIEW: This lens, similar to its brother the Nikon 50 1.8G, is not easy to work with on this sensor (the Panasonic G85). When I started the test (at -0-0-0-0, HS -0-0) it had the same deep shadows that the 50mm had, and the same weird color rendering. I think these final settings make this into a lens that is a decent tool, but it will need both sharpening and color added in post-production (to look "REAL"). I might be able to correct some of the strange tonal range problems with the LUT, and I it's easy to boost the SATURATION of the color, but I don't know if I will ever get the color HUE to look accurate. This color issue is hard to describe, but it renders colors with a deeper tone than they really are, and some may like this, but my goal is realism (so this is not one of my favorite lenses). POST-PRODUCTION NOTES: This lens-sensor combination will need some post-production work (these are my recommendations): 1. Add SHARPNESS (in Davinci Resolve) 2. Create/add a LUT (see notes above) 3. Add my "YouTube COLOR Bump" (if you're uploading to YouTube) Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 35 1.8 G DX +BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -2 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR -1+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR F IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: OVERVIEW: This lens, similar to its brother the Nikon 50 1.8G, is not easy to work with on this sensor (the Panasonic G85). When I started the test (at -0-0-0-0, HS -0-0) it had the same deep shadows that the 50mm had, and the same weird color rendering. I think these final settings make this into a lens that is a decent tool, but it will need both sharpening and color added in post-production (to look "REAL"). I might be able to correct some of the strange tonal range problems with the LUT, and I it's easy to boost the SATURATION of the color, but I don't know if I will ever get the color HUE to look accurate. This color issue is hard to describe, but it renders colors with a deeper tone than they really are, and some may like this, but my goal is realism (so this is not one of my favorite lenses). POST-PRODUCTION NOTES: This lens-sensor combination will need some post-production work (these are my recommendations): 1. Add SHARPNESS (in Davinci Resolve) 2. Create/add a LUT (see notes above) 3. Add my "YouTube COLOR Bump" (if you're uploading to YouTube) My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

WARNING: This test was using a Viltrox EF-M2ii focal reducer/speedbooster which (in conjunction with this old lens and the noisy, high-powered AF pulling too much power) resulted in damage to my Panasonic GX85 camera. The camera started glitching and freezing up during the test, then electronics of the camera stopped working within a couple of months. NOTES: I got this lens because having the constant f/2.8 aperture was appealing, but this lens has a lot of problems. This lens in particular had a lot of chromatic abberations (which showed up as red, blue and purple fringes) and the overall CONTRAST and COLOR rendering are really weird (the contrast is not smooth in the transitions from shadow to highlight, and with this sensor the COLOR is not only inaccurate but incomplete). This is also the second pro Sigma lens that needed a +3 SHADOWS correction (using Highlight Shadow) because the lens is too contrasty (which is a bad thing with this sensor). All I can say is that I struggled to make the lens render a REAL-looking image, which is my goal. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 17-50 2.8 + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -1 COLOR -0+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Sigma 17-50 2.8 VILTROX Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Sigma 17-50 2.8 VILTROX Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -4-5+3-1 HS -0+3 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST D IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE F IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR D IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: WARNING: This test was using a Viltrox EF-M2ii focal reducer/speedbooster which (in conjunction with this old lens and the noisy, high-powered AF pulling too much power) resulted in damage to my Panasonic GX85 camera. The camera started glitching and freezing up during the test, then electronics of the camera stopped working within a couple of months. NOTES: I got this lens because having the constant f/2.8 aperture was appealing, but this lens has a lot of problems. This lens in particular had a lot of chromatic abberations (which showed up as red, blue and purple fringes) and the overall CONTRAST and COLOR rendering are really weird (the contrast is not smooth in the transitions from shadow to highlight, and with this sensor the COLOR is not only inaccurate but incomplete). This is also the second pro Sigma lens that needed a +3 SHADOWS correction (using Highlight Shadow) because the lens is too contrasty (which is a bad thing with this sensor). All I can say is that I struggled to make the lens render a REAL-looking image, which is my goal. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.