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Natural
"PHOTO STYLE"
-0
CONTRAST
-0
SHARPNESS
+3
-1
-0+1
HIGHLIGHT SHADOW
OFF
iDYNAMIC
OFF
16-255
LUMINANCE LEVEL
Unsharp Mask*
ADOBE
POST-PRODUCTION
AMOUNT
RADIUS
THRESHOLD
Blur / Sharpen
DAVINCI RESOLVE
POST-PRODUCTION
LENS @FULL WIDE
LENS @MID-ZOOM
LENS @FULL TELE
REAL RATINGS
After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras).
CONTRAST
A
IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"?
SHARPNESS
B
IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"?
NOISE
A
IS THE NOISE "REAL"?
COLOR
A
IS THE COLOR "REAL"?
*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).
NOTES:
Wow...this works, without many corrections (on the G85 sensor). This is probably the 3rd easiest lens-sensor combo I've ever calibrated on the Panasonic G85 (the others were the vintage Vivitar 70-210 3.5, and the Nikon AF-D 50 1.4, both of which could be used, in the NATURAL picture profile, with no settings adjustments). To me, success is when the final image looks REAL, and with these settings, this lens makes a really good image on this camera. All I had to do was add a bit of NOISE REDUCTION (to help highlight rolloff, not for noise issues) and then to add a very slight HIGHLIGHT SHADOW correction, but you could go without it (if you want a slightly more contrasty shot than the scene really was). The only issue might be that it needs a little bit more SHARPNESS added during post-production, but I think these settings are a pretty good starting point.
The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.
