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Using same SETTINGS for this Tiffen Black Pro Mist 1/4 version (as with the BARE, no filter version) to make production easier. They WILL HAVE DIFFERENT LUTS though, as this filter reduces CONTRAST and COLOR, and the post-production SHARPENING will be different as well (because filter reduces the SHARPNESS). Interesting side note is that I was considering adding more COLOR to this version of the settings, but starting with less COLOR is actually better to hide the digital noise artifacts, yet if you wanted the two shots (filter/non-filter) to MATCH, then I would increase the COLOR to +3 (when using this Tiffen BPM14 filter). NOTES FROM UNFILTERED/BARE VERSION: I've been learning that, specifically with the GH5, a lot of the OEM Panasonic lenses still have too much SHARPNESS and too much CONTRAST so to correct for this (while using the NATURAL profile) I'm not only tuning those settings but also need pretty extreme HIGHLIGHT SHADOW compensation...and that ends up adding more MAGENTA to the color cast (and adds other color noise too, but the overall color cast leans towards MAGENTA). Therefore, this is going to need a LUT to correct for this, for sure! Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: Tiffen Black Pro Mist 1/4 Panasonic 25 1.7 ADAPTER: None (Native) Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE +2 COLOR -5+4 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Using same SETTINGS for this Tiffen Black Pro Mist 1/4 version (as with the BARE, no filter version) to make production easier. They WILL HAVE DIFFERENT LUTS though, as this filter reduces CONTRAST and COLOR, and the post-production SHARPENING will be different as well (because filter reduces the SHARPNESS). Interesting side note is that I was considering adding more COLOR to this version of the settings, but starting with less COLOR is actually better to hide the digital noise artifacts, yet if you wanted the two shots (filter/non-filter) to MATCH, then I would increase the COLOR to +3 (when using this Tiffen BPM14 filter). NOTES FROM UNFILTERED/BARE VERSION: I've been learning that, specifically with the GH5, a lot of the OEM Panasonic lenses still have too much SHARPNESS and too much CONTRAST so to correct for this (while using the NATURAL profile) I'm not only tuning those settings but also need pretty extreme HIGHLIGHT SHADOW compensation...and that ends up adding more MAGENTA to the color cast (and adds other color noise too, but the overall color cast leans towards MAGENTA). Therefore, this is going to need a LUT to correct for this, for sure! My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

UPDATE: I'm happy with the how my final Highlight Shadow compensation worked, but the notes below about lack of realism still apply. If your goals for a lens-sensor combination include either realism or accuracy, this combination isn't good. If you're going for a vintage look however, this might be worth a try. I do add the word "might" though, as what I'm struggling with is the overall CONTRAST of the lens (it's good, it's a bit too much FOR THIS SENSOR, resulting in too wide of a dynamic range being covered; more than this sensor can handle). I'm still experimenting with Highlight Shadow compensation to see if I can remedy this, but so far doing this undercuts certain other positive traits of the lens in the process (it tones down the pretty red and blue fringing/chromatic aberrations). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Kiron 28-85 2.8-3.8 +TILT (Tilt-Only Adapter) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" +1 CONTRAST +2 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -0 COLOR -4+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: UPDATE: I'm happy with the how my final Highlight Shadow compensation worked, but the notes below about lack of realism still apply. If your goals for a lens-sensor combination include either realism or accuracy, this combination isn't good. If you're going for a vintage look however, this might be worth a try. I do add the word "might" though, as what I'm struggling with is the overall CONTRAST of the lens (it's good, it's a bit too much FOR THIS SENSOR, resulting in too wide of a dynamic range being covered; more than this sensor can handle). I'm still experimenting with Highlight Shadow compensation to see if I can remedy this, but so far doing this undercuts certain other positive traits of the lens in the process (it tones down the pretty red and blue fringing/chromatic aberrations). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Still testing, but using the same settings as the Koah 35 1.2 is working pretty well. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Koah 50 1.4 No Adapter (Native Mount) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST +3 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE +2 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Still testing, but using the same settings as the Koah 35 1.2 is working pretty well. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

[Needs a "REAL" LUT to finish it.] This was a VERY difficult lens to come up with the set of recommended settings for. My goal is simply to make it easy to get the best original capture as possible (at all aperture settings) and that was difficult because of how inconsistent this lens is at different apertures (in terms of how it renders light, etc.) Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Pentax Super-Takumar 50 1.4 ii + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -1 COLOR -2, +2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [Needs a "REAL" LUT to finish it.] This was a VERY difficult lens to come up with the set of recommended settings for. My goal is simply to make it easy to get the best original capture as possible (at all aperture settings) and that was difficult because of how inconsistent this lens is at different apertures (in terms of how it renders light, etc.) My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

INDOOR test using Metabones ULTRA .64x speed booster. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 17-50 2.8 + BOOST (Metabones XL .64x) Panasonic GH4 CineLike D "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR Standard HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: INDOOR test using Metabones ULTRA .64x speed booster. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

NOTE: In CineLike D, THIS LENS IS A PERFECT MATCH at -0-0-0-0. I am testing now in NATURAL because I need to be able to test still photo modes... Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 18-55 + SHIFT (Perspective Control Adapter) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -1 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE +2 COLOR -4+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: NOTE: In CineLike D, THIS LENS IS A PERFECT MATCH at -0-0-0-0. I am testing now in NATURAL because I need to be able to test still photo modes... My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

I gave this lens a REALLY high REAL Rating in all areas except COLOR (because it produces a slight GREEN tint with this sensor at normal white balance settings) but with these custom settings there isn't much else wrong with it (so it's a pretty good lens AND it's super affordable on the used market). While I initially made a LUT for this lens-sensor combo (that made only SLIGHT changes to the image) I removed it from the website because these settings work pretty well SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) and I didn't want someone to pay money for the LUT and then see how little the LUT changes the image. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Minolta AF 50 1.7 + ADAPTER (Non-Optical, NO BOOST) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST -2 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR -0-0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Minolta AF 50 1.7 Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Minolta AF 50 1.7 Panasonic GX85 NATURAL-2-2+5-0 HS -0-0 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: I gave this lens a REALLY high REAL Rating in all areas except COLOR (because it produces a slight GREEN tint with this sensor at normal white balance settings) but with these custom settings there isn't much else wrong with it (so it's a pretty good lens AND it's super affordable on the used market). While I initially made a LUT for this lens-sensor combo (that made only SLIGHT changes to the image) I removed it from the website because these settings work pretty well SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) and I didn't want someone to pay money for the LUT and then see how little the LUT changes the image. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

I don't like this lens-sensor combination. I am using the Viltrox NF-M43x (Nikon mount) speed booster for this test (and that is part of it) but this booster looks really good on other lenses, so I wouldn't blame it on that. It just always comes down to the combination of all the things put together, kind of a synergy if you will...and this combo looks BAD (not good). So, while I think my custom settings do help create a file that is an okay starting point, the image it produces is very un-inspiring, and I hope to make the images into something better with a custom LUT (but I really don't even want to work with this lens!)... Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 35 1.8 G DX +BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -0 COLOR -3+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST - IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS - IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE - IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR - IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: I don't like this lens-sensor combination. I am using the Viltrox NF-M43x (Nikon mount) speed booster for this test (and that is part of it) but this booster looks really good on other lenses, so I wouldn't blame it on that. It just always comes down to the combination of all the things put together, kind of a synergy if you will...and this combo looks BAD (not good). So, while I think my custom settings do help create a file that is an okay starting point, the image it produces is very un-inspiring, and I hope to make the images into something better with a custom LUT (but I really don't even want to work with this lens!)... My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Still testing, and on this camera (GH5) it has way too much SHARPNESS, CONTRAST and NOISE (and the COLOR is bad in part due to the extreme HIGHLIGHT SHADOW curves applied). Any links below are affiliate links. Nikon 17-35 2.8 D Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR -3+4 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Still testing, and on this camera (GH5) it has way too much SHARPNESS, CONTRAST and NOISE (and the COLOR is bad in part due to the extreme HIGHLIGHT SHADOW curves applied). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

These CUSTOM SETTINGS will need a LUT to finalize the image (it needs more CONTRAST and COLOR saturation) but I feel like they are a good starting point. In the future, I may try to get this closer to SOOC, but I think these settings match the lens to get the most dynamic range out of this sensor (my goal). However, I think these settings still preserve and showcase the flaws so many people love about this lens (a diffused but sharp and dreamy rendering). Initially, I was disappointed in this lens because of how inconsistent the COLOR and SHARPNESS are when changing aperture values, and I had a difficult time figuring out a single set of settings that would work for it. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Canon FDn 50 1.4 + ADAPTER (Non-Optical, NO BOOST) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST +2 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -2 COLOR OFF HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Canon FDn 50 1.4 Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Canon FDn 50 1.4 Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -4+2+3-2 HS -0-0 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE D IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR F IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: These CUSTOM SETTINGS will need a LUT to finalize the image (it needs more CONTRAST and COLOR saturation) but I feel like they are a good starting point. In the future, I may try to get this closer to SOOC, but I think these settings match the lens to get the most dynamic range out of this sensor (my goal). However, I think these settings still preserve and showcase the flaws so many people love about this lens (a diffused but sharp and dreamy rendering). Initially, I was disappointed in this lens because of how inconsistent the COLOR and SHARPNESS are when changing aperture values, and I had a difficult time figuring out a single set of settings that would work for it. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

These settings are not as "REAL" as I would normally prefer, as the color is more saturated than normal, but I did this to capture the unique color this lens can render. It's also a bit light in the shadows, but this forces you to underexpose a little, which protects the highlights and just seems to bring out the magical properties of this lens. As I've said before about this lens, it has a lot of "character" and it can be inconsistent in terms of how it renders light (from aperture to aperture). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Pentax Super-Takumar 50 1.4 ii + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -0 COLOR -2+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: These settings are not as "REAL" as I would normally prefer, as the color is more saturated than normal, but I did this to capture the unique color this lens can render. It's also a bit light in the shadows, but this forces you to underexpose a little, which protects the highlights and just seems to bring out the magical properties of this lens. As I've said before about this lens, it has a lot of "character" and it can be inconsistent in terms of how it renders light (from aperture to aperture). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

-1 HUE Wow. With these CUSTOM SETTINGS, the image gets one of the highest "Real Ratings" I've ever given to a lens-sensor combination! The ONLY thing that is off is that there is TOO MUCH RED in the image (but the GH5 is pretty consistently off in that area, so I'm fixing it with a LUT). Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: None Minolta AF 50 1.7 ADAPTER: Minolta AF (Sony A) to M43 Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -4 SHARPNESS -0 NOISE -0 COLOR -3+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: -1 HUE Wow. With these CUSTOM SETTINGS, the image gets one of the highest "Real Ratings" I've ever given to a lens-sensor combination! The ONLY thing that is off is that there is TOO MUCH RED in the image (but the GH5 is pretty consistently off in that area, so I'm fixing it with a LUT). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.