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This was a test of the Takstar SGC-600 microphone at +10 MIC. BOOST, plugged directly into the Zoom F1 using a REC. LEVEL of HIGH- and the MIC. LOWCUT filter is ON. "VLOG" Proximity [ 22 inches / 55.5 cm] Zoom F1 (NO AUX. Amplifier) Takstar SGC-600 + Foam (Stock) WAV 24-bit/96kHz REC. SETTINGS OFF REC. LOWCUT OFF REC. LIMITER "HI-" REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS AUX. BASS AUX. HIGH-LOW AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS ON MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS +10 MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: May 4, 2022 at 12:54:06 AM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: This was a test of the Takstar SGC-600 microphone at +10 MIC. BOOST, plugged directly into the Zoom F1 using a REC. LEVEL of HIGH- and the MIC. LOWCUT filter is ON. Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

IMPORTANT NOTE: I'm using the Neoteck AUX. amplifier for this test (at the "BOOM" proximity) so if you're not using this to boost the audio, you'll have to raise the levels a lot more in post. I'm debating whether or not I should do tests using this AUX. (headphone) amplifier, because my guess is there will be times when people don't notice it in these notes (and they'll try to use this microphone at this distance, without it...and that won't work as well). *Note that you still cannot use this combination with the wireless RECEIVER turned on (there is way too much RFI when it's on) so basically you can't use this as a wireless device (with this mic). "BOOM" Proximity [35 inches / 88.8 cm] 7RYMS iRAY DW30 (Recorder) AUX. Amplifier: Neoteck Rode VideoMic Pro R Windscreen: FOAM + FURRY (Stock) 48k 24-bit REC. SETTINGS N/A REC. LOWCUT N/A REC. LIMITER N/A REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS N/A AUX. BASS LOW (L) AUX. HIGH-LOW @FULL AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS ON MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS +20 MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE GOOD* LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m GOOD* BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m GOOD* BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: February 24, 2023 at 4:12:24 AM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS ? DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS ? DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE ? DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: IMPORTANT NOTE: I'm using the Neoteck AUX. amplifier for this test (at the "BOOM" proximity) so if you're not using this to boost the audio, you'll have to raise the levels a lot more in post. I'm debating whether or not I should do tests using this AUX. (headphone) amplifier, because my guess is there will be times when people don't notice it in these notes (and they'll try to use this microphone at this distance, without it...and that won't work as well). *Note that you still cannot use this combination with the wireless RECEIVER turned on (there is way too much RFI when it's on) so basically you can't use this as a wireless device (with this mic). Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

OVERVIEW: This is a 600 watt portable power source that has a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Source) function, so it works well as a backup battery for a computer workstation. MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? For me, I don't consider this to be portable, for a few reasons. First, while it works well as a UPS for a computer workstation, it doesn't hold a charge very well when it isn't charged frequently. Second, it's not portable in the sense of being able to travel with it because it would not be legal to take this type of battery on a passenger airplane. It's sort of portable for camping (because it would fit in a van) but again, the battery doesn't hold a charge on the shelf very well, so that's kind of out. PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes, but there are other options at a lower price now (Amazon even warns that the current pricing is high). PART 3: IS IT COMMON? It's fairly common on Amazon and eBay as well, but be careful to not get version 1 (which is sometimes difficult to figure out on eBay listings). PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? For indoor use as a UPS battery (for a computer workstation) it works pretty well, but I'm not going to say it's a good battery for any other (portable) use. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? It's easy to use as it doesn't have extra features that provide an opportunity to get something wrong. All you have to remember is to not press the little buttons by the plug-ins, because that would turn off the power output. PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? It doesn't need any add-ons. PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought it on Amazon (be careful to get the UPGRADED version, which isn't always easy to know on some eBay listings). RECOMMENDATION: I'm really thankful this unit kept us going during a few power outages (so it's good in that respect) but the problem is that I have both versions (1 and 2) and version 1 died after about a year. Version 2 (that says "Upgraded" on Amazon listing) has been working pretty well, for more than a year...so I don't recommend version 1 (it was the tan/white colored version). REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: [NOT IN KIT] ALLPOWERS R600 This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK ? Portable? POCKET No CAMERA BAG No BACKPACK No Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE $ 219 *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE -- **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Yes ON EBAY Yes Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL EASY OVERVIEW: This is a 600 watt portable power source that has a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Source) function, so it works well as a backup battery for a computer workstation. MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? For me, I don't consider this to be portable, for a few reasons. First, while it works well as a UPS for a computer workstation, it doesn't hold a charge very well when it isn't charged frequently. Second, it's not portable in the sense of being able to travel with it because it would not be legal to take this type of battery on a passenger airplane. It's sort of portable for camping (because it would fit in a van) but again, the battery doesn't hold a charge on the shelf very well, so that's kind of out. PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes, but there are other options at a lower price now (Amazon even warns that the current pricing is high). PART 3: IS IT COMMON? It's fairly common on Amazon and eBay as well, but be careful to not get version 1 (which is sometimes difficult to figure out on eBay listings). PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? For indoor use as a UPS battery (for a computer workstation) it works pretty well, but I'm not going to say it's a good battery for any other (portable) use. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? It's easy to use as it doesn't have extra features that provide an opportunity to get something wrong. All you have to remember is to not press the little buttons by the plug-ins, because that would turn off the power output. PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? It doesn't need any add-ons. PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought it on Amazon (be careful to get the UPGRADED version, which isn't always easy to know on some eBay listings). RECOMMENDATION: I'm really thankful this unit kept us going during a few power outages (so it's good in that respect) but the problem is that I have both versions (1 and 2) and version 1 died after about a year. Version 2 (that says "Upgraded" on Amazon listing) has been working pretty well, for more than a year...so I don't recommend version 1 (it was the tan/white colored version). These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .

RFI WARNING: The Zoom H1 (v1) has noticeable RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) when used at less than 5 FEET from an iPhone 13 Pro max. This is a major limitation, especially for LAV use, because if the recorder is in the pocket of a groom, and they have an iPhone somewhere in their coat, this is going to cause RFI. This newer, and smaller mic from Takstar is outputting a higher signal level than the older SGC-598. What is really interesting about this microphone at this "CLOSE" proximity is, while it didn't need the MIC. LOWCUT for reducing BACKGROUND noise, it quite amazingly CORRECTED the excessive bass response issue a close proximity almost always creates (which I normally remove with the EQ). "CLOSE" Proximity [ 3.5 inches / 8.89 cm] Zoom H1 (NO AUX. Amplifier) Takstar SGC-600 + Foam (Stock) WAV 24-bit/96kHz REC. SETTINGS Off REC. LOWCUT Off REC. LIMITER 37 REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS AUX. BASS AUX. HIGH-LOW AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS On MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS +0 MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: April 17, 2022 at 12:02:55 AM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: RFI WARNING: The Zoom H1 (v1) has noticeable RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) when used at less than 5 FEET from an iPhone 13 Pro max. This is a major limitation, especially for LAV use, because if the recorder is in the pocket of a groom, and they have an iPhone somewhere in their coat, this is going to cause RFI. This newer, and smaller mic from Takstar is outputting a higher signal level than the older SGC-598. What is really interesting about this microphone at this "CLOSE" proximity is, while it didn't need the MIC. LOWCUT for reducing BACKGROUND noise, it quite amazingly CORRECTED the excessive bass response issue a close proximity almost always creates (which I normally remove with the EQ). Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

RFI WARNING: The Zoom H1 (v1) has noticeable RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) when used at less than 5 FEET from an iPhone 13 Pro max. This is a major limitation, especially for LAV use, because if the recorder is in the pocket of a groom, and they have an iPhone somewhere in their coat, this is going to cause RFI. OVERVIEW: This mic sounds pretty "REAL" and natural at this proximity, with these settings. LONG VERSION: This test was performed using the official Rode VMPR Deadcat (FURRY windscreen) on top of the stock FOAM windscreen (which is how it is designed to work). It sounds great at this "BOOM" proximity, as this microphone normally suffers from having too much BASS, especially at closer proximities (due to the "proximity" effect). I'm also using both the MIC. LOWCUT and the REC. LOWCUT and this helps to both reduce the amount of BASS and to lessen the unwanted sounds created by handling noise. Speaking of handling noise, the shock mount is pretty good, but the thing that you have to watch out for is the cable rubbing against the mic or whatever it's plugged into (but this is lessened by the use of the two LOWCUT filters). SPECIAL NOTE: Most places recommend not using a boom microphone at a distance greater than 3 feet, but I don't think that is practical (especially when shooting a WIDE shot) and so I've been experimenting with a number of mics up to 4 feet away, and this is one of those you can make work at that distance. Keep in mind that you'll have to boost the levels more in post, as I do not recommend going above a REC. LEVEL of 50 to get a clean signal from this audio recorder (and certainly not above 63). "BOOM" Proximity [35 inches / 88.8 cm] Zoom H1 AUX. Amplifier: None Rode VideoMic Pro R Windscreen: FOAM + FURRY (Stock) 96k 24bit REC. SETTINGS ON REC. LOWCUT OFF REC. LIMITER 37-50* REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS N/A AUX. BASS N/A AUX. HIGH-LOW N/A AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS ON MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS +20 MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE OKAY LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m GOOD BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m GOOD BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: May 4, 2022 at 9:24:35 PM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS B DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS A DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE A DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: RFI WARNING: The Zoom H1 (v1) has noticeable RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) when used at less than 5 FEET from an iPhone 13 Pro max. This is a major limitation, especially for LAV use, because if the recorder is in the pocket of a groom, and they have an iPhone somewhere in their coat, this is going to cause RFI. OVERVIEW: This mic sounds pretty "REAL" and natural at this proximity, with these settings. LONG VERSION: This test was performed using the official Rode VMPR Deadcat (FURRY windscreen) on top of the stock FOAM windscreen (which is how it is designed to work). It sounds great at this "BOOM" proximity, as this microphone normally suffers from having too much BASS, especially at closer proximities (due to the "proximity" effect). I'm also using both the MIC. LOWCUT and the REC. LOWCUT and this helps to both reduce the amount of BASS and to lessen the unwanted sounds created by handling noise. Speaking of handling noise, the shock mount is pretty good, but the thing that you have to watch out for is the cable rubbing against the mic or whatever it's plugged into (but this is lessened by the use of the two LOWCUT filters). SPECIAL NOTE: Most places recommend not using a boom microphone at a distance greater than 3 feet, but I don't think that is practical (especially when shooting a WIDE shot) and so I've been experimenting with a number of mics up to 4 feet away, and this is one of those you can make work at that distance. Keep in mind that you'll have to boost the levels more in post, as I do not recommend going above a REC. LEVEL of 50 to get a clean signal from this audio recorder (and certainly not above 63). Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

One thing to note is that my settings for this proximity are a little bit low (but I do that to be more safe for a variety of voice levels, etc.) Also, I have been finding that using the MIC. LOWCUT creates a better file (for creating an EQ later) and having it on also helps reduce handling noise (but the shock mount is actually pretty good). "CLOSE" Proximity [3.5 inches / 8.89 cm] Zoom H1n Saramonic SR-VM4 + Foam (Stock) WAV 24-bit/96kHz REC. SETTINGS OFF REC. LOWCUT OFF REC. LIMITER 4.3 REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS AUX. BASS AUX. HIGH-LOW AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS ON MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS +20 MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: May 4, 2022 at 8:32:41 PM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: One thing to note is that my settings for this proximity are a little bit low (but I do that to be more safe for a variety of voice levels, etc.) Also, I have been finding that using the MIC. LOWCUT creates a better file (for creating an EQ later) and having it on also helps reduce handling noise (but the shock mount is actually pretty good). Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

AUDIO RECORDER SPECIFIC: I'm testing this microphone on as many audio recorders as I can, and one difference I noticed about this mic (and most mics) on the Zoom F1 is that when the REC. LEVEL is set to a normal level (one that doesn't need to be amplified in post-production) it seems to have more BASS than the Zoom H1, H1n and F2. MIC-SPECIFIC: This is yet another test in which a mic sounds better with the Comica CVM-MF1 (Lavalier Furry). Also, this is one of the few mics that works (fairly well) WITHOUT a windscreen at all (I suspect it may have some built-in wind protection, because the top of the mic is bigger than any lavalier mic I've seen. To me, the fact that this sounds better with the FURRY is kind of a timesaver, because now I can leave the furry on for either INDOOR or OUTDOOR use (except for the fact that you need to wear it with dark clothing to hide it). "LAV" Proximity [7 inches / 17.78 cm] Zoom F1 [NO AUX. BOOST] JK MIC-J 017 (Lavalier) WINDSCREEN: Comica CVM-MF1 (Furry) 96k 24bit REC. SETTINGS OFF REC. LOWCUT OFF REC. LIMITER "HI" REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS N/A AUX. BASS N/A AUX. HIGH-LOW N/A AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS N/A MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS N/A MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: January 8, 2023 at 1:21:03 AM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS B DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS C DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE A DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: AUDIO RECORDER SPECIFIC: I'm testing this microphone on as many audio recorders as I can, and one difference I noticed about this mic (and most mics) on the Zoom F1 is that when the REC. LEVEL is set to a normal level (one that doesn't need to be amplified in post-production) it seems to have more BASS than the Zoom H1, H1n and F2. MIC-SPECIFIC: This is yet another test in which a mic sounds better with the Comica CVM-MF1 (Lavalier Furry). Also, this is one of the few mics that works (fairly well) WITHOUT a windscreen at all (I suspect it may have some built-in wind protection, because the top of the mic is bigger than any lavalier mic I've seen. To me, the fact that this sounds better with the FURRY is kind of a timesaver, because now I can leave the furry on for either INDOOR or OUTDOOR use (except for the fact that you need to wear it with dark clothing to hide it). Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

OVERVIEW: If you don't need image stabilization (which you don't need as much when it's mounted to the top of your bigger camera) the HERO4 Silver is a really good deal ($40 used). I don't know why footage from this old and inexpensive camera looks so good. I think it could be due to the lack of excessive NR (Noise Reduction) that some of the newer models I've tested have (especially the HERO7). Also, sometimes you might want a bit of camera movement (I.C.M) and for those times this can work really well for that. I keep 2 of these around to use either on the cold shoe of my camera (the "Minimal Kit") or as BTS (behind the scenes) camera, mounted on a small selfie stick/tripod (or a GorillaPod) on the floor. Keep in mind that this one is not waterproof (at all) (without the enclosure) so try to buy one with that underwater housing included. MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? Yes, it is super tiny. It would not only fit in a small pants pocket but two or three of them would! I usually store one of them, with a cold shoe adapter, in every camera bag I have (even in the mini one of my "Minimal Kit"). PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes. On the used market it's around $40 US, and it's so old you won't find many on the NEW market, and if you do they'll probably be overpriced (for collectors to buy). PART 3: IS IT COMMON? Yes, it is pretty common (there are lots of them out there) which likely indicates it sold well when it was the current model, probably because it just works good, and it was a big step up from the previous version. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? I have had people comment on how good the quality was (when the footage was edited alongside the Panasonic GX85) so I think it's pretty good. I think I only use it in 2.7K mode (I think that's all that's available in the "Linear" lens angle mode) but it does a good job. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? I think so, if all you do is press record. The custom settings are kind of limited though, so you'll have to spend some time finishing the image in post-production. Make sure to use my CUSTOM SETTINGS to get the image to a good starting point though as you don't want to start with an image that crushes the blacks (or blows out highlights) so check out the custom settings for it (on my website, shameless plug). PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? Yes. You need the waterproof housing (not only for the waterproofing but also for the mounting posts) and I like to add a camera mount as well. You can get 3rd party waterproof housings for it, but because it goes over the lens, I would think the OEM GoPro version would be less destructive (optically). Plus, the custom camera settings (on my website) are based on using the OEM GoPro housing (as it does affect the image quality somewhat). PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I've purchased two of them on local marketplaces (Offer up, Craigslist) because the price has been good. If you try to find them on Amazon, they are likely to be overpriced, but eBay would probably be a good option. RECOMMENDATION: If you don't have a #2 camera, and you have an extra $40, I think the GoPro HERO4 Silver is a good camera to get (do NOT get the HERO4 Black though, as it only shoots in fisheye modes, not in the Linear mode). Even if you do shoot with two cameras already, it can be fun to add some behind-the-scenes (BTS) footage with one of these. Keep in mind that some of these action cameras will stop recording after about 10 minutes, so it's not a replacement for a REAL 2nd camera. REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: MINIMAL KIT GoPro HERO4 Silver This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK Yes Portable? POCKET Yes CAMERA BAG Yes BACKPACK Yes Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE NA *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE $ 50.34** **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Yes ON EBAY Yes Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL EASY OVERVIEW: If you don't need image stabilization (which you don't need as much when it's mounted to the top of your bigger camera) the HERO4 Silver is a really good deal ($40 used). I don't know why footage from this old and inexpensive camera looks so good. I think it could be due to the lack of excessive NR (Noise Reduction) that some of the newer models I've tested have (especially the HERO7). Also, sometimes you might want a bit of camera movement (I.C.M) and for those times this can work really well for that. I keep 2 of these around to use either on the cold shoe of my camera (the "Minimal Kit") or as BTS (behind the scenes) camera, mounted on a small selfie stick/tripod (or a GorillaPod) on the floor. Keep in mind that this one is not waterproof (at all) (without the enclosure) so try to buy one with that underwater housing included. MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? Yes, it is super tiny. It would not only fit in a small pants pocket but two or three of them would! I usually store one of them, with a cold shoe adapter, in every camera bag I have (even in the mini one of my "Minimal Kit"). PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes. On the used market it's around $40 US, and it's so old you won't find many on the NEW market, and if you do they'll probably be overpriced (for collectors to buy). PART 3: IS IT COMMON? Yes, it is pretty common (there are lots of them out there) which likely indicates it sold well when it was the current model, probably because it just works good, and it was a big step up from the previous version. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? I have had people comment on how good the quality was (when the footage was edited alongside the Panasonic GX85) so I think it's pretty good. I think I only use it in 2.7K mode (I think that's all that's available in the "Linear" lens angle mode) but it does a good job. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? I think so, if all you do is press record. The custom settings are kind of limited though, so you'll have to spend some time finishing the image in post-production. Make sure to use my CUSTOM SETTINGS to get the image to a good starting point though as you don't want to start with an image that crushes the blacks (or blows out highlights) so check out the custom settings for it (on my website, shameless plug). PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? Yes. You need the waterproof housing (not only for the waterproofing but also for the mounting posts) and I like to add a camera mount as well. You can get 3rd party waterproof housings for it, but because it goes over the lens, I would think the OEM GoPro version would be less destructive (optically). Plus, the custom camera settings (on my website) are based on using the OEM GoPro housing (as it does affect the image quality somewhat). PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I've purchased two of them on local marketplaces (Offer up, Craigslist) because the price has been good. If you try to find them on Amazon, they are likely to be overpriced, but eBay would probably be a good option. RECOMMENDATION: If you don't have a #2 camera, and you have an extra $40, I think the GoPro HERO4 Silver is a good camera to get (do NOT get the HERO4 Black though, as it only shoots in fisheye modes, not in the Linear mode). Even if you do shoot with two cameras already, it can be fun to add some behind-the-scenes (BTS) footage with one of these. Keep in mind that some of these action cameras will stop recording after about 10 minutes, so it's not a replacement for a REAL 2nd camera. These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .

I like this combination at this "VLOG" proximity. It seems to be handling the wind noise a lot better than the Zoom H1n, as well as just coming out with a more of a natural, balanced sounding recording than the H1n (after all of the LOWCUT filters applied, both MIC. LOWCUT and REC. LOWCUT 120Hz). These settings do result in a level that's a little bit too low to use without boosting in post, but it handled that post-processing well, and I don't like to push the Zoom F1 REC. LEVEL past "HI-" because it introduces too much audio recorder preamp self-noise. "VLOG" Proximity [22 inches / 55.5 cm] Zoom F1 (NO AUX. Amplifier) Rode VideoMic Pro R Windscreen: FOAM + FURRY (Stock) 96k 24bit REC. SETTINGS 120 Hz REC. LOWCUT OFF REC. LIMITER "HI-" REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS N/A AUX. BASS N/A AUX. HIGH-LOW N/A AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS ON MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS +20 MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: May 4, 2022 at 9:25:20 PM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: I like this combination at this "VLOG" proximity. It seems to be handling the wind noise a lot better than the Zoom H1n, as well as just coming out with a more of a natural, balanced sounding recording than the H1n (after all of the LOWCUT filters applied, both MIC. LOWCUT and REC. LOWCUT 120Hz). These settings do result in a level that's a little bit too low to use without boosting in post, but it handled that post-processing well, and I don't like to push the Zoom F1 REC. LEVEL past "HI-" because it introduces too much audio recorder preamp self-noise. Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

Normally I would turn the MIC. LOWCUT filter ON, but this microphone has a good shock mount and it because it sounds so much better with the MIC. LOWCUT set to OFF, that is how I prefer to set it. This mic has a really high output (when compared with competing products) so we can keep it at a low REC. GAIN setting (in this case it's at MID). "VLOG" Proximity [22 inches / 55.5 cm] Zoom F1 (NO AUX. Amplifier) Shure VP83 LensHopper + Foam (Stock) WAV 24-bit/96kHz REC. SETTINGS Off REC. LOWCUT Off REC. LIMITER "MID" REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS AUX. BASS AUX. HIGH-LOW AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS OFF MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS +20 MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: May 5, 2022 at 2:29:43 PM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: Normally I would turn the MIC. LOWCUT filter ON, but this microphone has a good shock mount and it because it sounds so much better with the MIC. LOWCUT set to OFF, that is how I prefer to set it. This mic has a really high output (when compared with competing products) so we can keep it at a low REC. GAIN setting (in this case it's at MID). Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

MIC. SPECIFIC: One little thing to note, is that in low light (learned this while vlogging after dark) I can't read the MIC. BOOST (mic gain) dial very well (because the paint is a red color) so if you need to see the MIC. BOOST setting in low light, I recommend painting over it with a lighter color, but be careful to not change the position of the mark of course. REGARDING MIC. LOWCUT: When testing this mic on another audio recorder, using the MIC. LOWCUT (either setting) sounded really bad (not natural at all) yet, when using both the FOAM + FURRY (that are included with the mic) the MIC. LOWCUT setting of 150Hz sounds good (it sounds natural and "REAL" as I say). Another weird thing is that the REC. LOWCUT (the one on the audio recorder) didn't sound good with this mic/audio recorder combination (but it sounded better than the MIC. LOWCUT on a different recorder). Anyways, it is really good this higher lowcut setting (150 vs 75) sounds natural, as the shock mount that comes with this mic isn't very effective, and the extra lowcut really helps (which is the main reason why lowcut filters are included on mics anyway). Also, the fact that it sounds more natural with the FOAM + FURRY is great, because this means you can just leave the FURRY on all of the time (INDOORS & OUTDOORS!) AUDIO RECORDER SPECIFIC: An important note specific to this audio recorder, is that the "HI-" REC. LEVEL setting sounds "cleaner" to me (less self-noise) than the next lower setting "MID+". It doesn't seem like it should, because it's a higher gain setting, but that is how it's sounding to me (it's kind of like how the self-noise on the Zoom H1 v1 is lower at a REC. LEVEL of 37 than it is at 36!). Also, because the Zoom F1 doesn't have a lot of options for REC. LEVEL steps (not "numerical" as the Zoom H1) I suggest keeping the REC. LEVEL set to "HI-" on the audio recorder, and then just tweaking the gain (when needed) by adjusting gain dial on the microphone (which is pretty nice because you can set it anywhere between 0-10 with stepless adjustments). "VLOG" Proximity [22 inches / 55.5 cm] Zoom F1 (NO AUX. Amplifier) Comica CVM-VM20 (Shotgun) Windscreen: FOAM + FURRY (Stock) 96k 24-bit REC. SETTINGS OFF REC. LOWCUT OFF REC. LIMITER "HI" REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS N/A AUX. BASS N/A AUX. HIGH-LOW N/A AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS 150 Hz MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS 6.5 MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE BAD LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m BAD BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: February 9, 2023 at 2:27:59 AM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: MIC. SPECIFIC: One little thing to note, is that in low light (learned this while vlogging after dark) I can't read the MIC. BOOST (mic gain) dial very well (because the paint is a red color) so if you need to see the MIC. BOOST setting in low light, I recommend painting over it with a lighter color, but be careful to not change the position of the mark of course. REGARDING MIC. LOWCUT: When testing this mic on another audio recorder, using the MIC. LOWCUT (either setting) sounded really bad (not natural at all) yet, when using both the FOAM + FURRY (that are included with the mic) the MIC. LOWCUT setting of 150Hz sounds good (it sounds natural and "REAL" as I say). Another weird thing is that the REC. LOWCUT (the one on the audio recorder) didn't sound good with this mic/audio recorder combination (but it sounded better than the MIC. LOWCUT on a different recorder). Anyways, it is really good this higher lowcut setting (150 vs 75) sounds natural, as the shock mount that comes with this mic isn't very effective, and the extra lowcut really helps (which is the main reason why lowcut filters are included on mics anyway). Also, the fact that it sounds more natural with the FOAM + FURRY is great, because this means you can just leave the FURRY on all of the time (INDOORS & OUTDOORS!) AUDIO RECORDER SPECIFIC: An important note specific to this audio recorder, is that the "HI-" REC. LEVEL setting sounds "cleaner" to me (less self-noise) than the next lower setting "MID+". It doesn't seem like it should, because it's a higher gain setting, but that is how it's sounding to me (it's kind of like how the self-noise on the Zoom H1 v1 is lower at a REC. LEVEL of 37 than it is at 36!). Also, because the Zoom F1 doesn't have a lot of options for REC. LEVEL steps (not "numerical" as the Zoom H1) I suggest keeping the REC. LEVEL set to "HI-" on the audio recorder, and then just tweaking the gain (when needed) by adjusting gain dial on the microphone (which is pretty nice because you can set it anywhere between 0-10 with stepless adjustments). Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: ADVANCED KIT Vidpro DSLR Camera Holster Case This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK ? Portable? POCKET No CAMERA BAG No BACKPACK No Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE N/A *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE N/A **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Out ON EBAY No Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL MEDIUM RECOMMENDATION: INTRODUCTION: I use this case to carry, protect a SmallRig COB light, and it works well for that. It was designed to be a DLSR camera bag (back when every REAL digital camera was a DSLR) so it's bigger than it needs to be for most mirrorless cameras. However, my use for this case is to protect a SmallRig COB light, and for that it works well! It does work as a camera case too, which I sometimes try, but it's kind of outdated as a camera case. MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? It's kind of portable. It has a neck or shoulder strap so you can sling it...but as far as putting the case inside of something else, it's pretty big so it only fits in my tripod bag (not inside or on my backpack). PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? It was affordable, when it was in stock. PART 3: IS IT COMMON? Not any more. It's not available on Amazon. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? The quality is really good. The bottom has a thick, reinforced part and the rest of it has good fabric, and pretty good zippers. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? Yes, as a shoulder or sling bag it's easy to use (but it's kind of cumbersome for how little it stores). PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? No, it doesn't need any add-ons. PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought it on Amazon, but now they're out of stock. RECOMMENDATION: Even though this specific model is out of stock on Amazon, I really like using this to either store my mini COB light or as a camera bag to carry my most frequently used camera around my neck. It's too bad these are going out of style (because they were designed for DSLRs) so pick one up if you can find one. These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .