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Filter | Lens | Sensor | Settings | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
(None) | Tamron 70-300 4-5.6 LD Di | Panasonic G85 | Natural | [TESTING...] |
(None) | Tamron 70-300 4-5.6 LD Di | Panasonic GH4 | CineLike D | Test done, but needs a LUT. |
(None) | Panasonic 14-42 ii | Panasonic GX85 | Natural | UPDATE 2: I just finished the updated settings! I think it still could benefit from doing some tests with some kind of diffusion filter (like the Tiffen GG or BPM) but I have to note that this is my last test with this camera because the shutter speed dial completely stopped working (when I turn it, it only goes HIGHER). The problems with this camera started after using a Viltrox EFM2ii (Canon mount focal reducer/speedbooster) during which the screen glitched, then the camera froze. Since then, it has gotten worse, and now I can't use it at all. (I love the Nikon mount version of the Viltrox focal reducer, the non-electronic version, but now I'm going to warn people about using the Canon mount version (because it has electrical contacts, and tries to communicate, and pull power from, the camera).
One thing that is really interesting about these settings, is that the SOOC JPEG (in still photo modes) looks really good (and, in fact a bit more accurate than the video footage, because the video footage is still a LITTLE bit over-sharpened).
UPDATE: I recently talked with another photographer about this lens (as well as talking with others in the past) and most people don't like it much. I've been working to figure out CUSTOM SETTINGS that help each lens look its best (specific to each camera sensor) and haven't been able to get this combo to look realistic (it looks too "digital"). I've started testing some lenses using Tiffen Black Pro Mist 1/8 filters and may try that here. What the filter does is smooth the transition of light from the highlights to the shadows, keeping the light projected onto the sensor within the dynamic range of the camera. This also causes SHARPNESS to decrease, but I have it turned all of the way down right now, so I can then turn it up on the custom settings, and it should make the image look less digital. |
(None) | Panasonic 14-42 ii | Panasonic G7 | Natural | FOR ATEM MINI |
(None) | Olympus 50 1.8 OM | Panasonic GX85 | [NEED ADAPTER] | |
(None) | Olympus 50 1.8 OM | Panasonic G7 | [NEED ADAPTER] | |
(None) | Nikon 18-55 VR | Panasonic GH4 | CineLike D | WOW! So far, -0-0-0-0 is working GREAT! Take a little color out with LUT. |
(None) | Nikon 55-200 VR | Panasonic GX85 | Natural |
While I think the CUSTOM settings are a better starting point than the DEFAULT (-0-0-0-0) settings, the custom settings aren't good SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) because they'll need more CONTRAST and COLOR added (this is the reason for the low REAL Ratings). The reason I think the CUSTOM settings are still good to start with though is that it captures more dynamic range and smoother gradients when there's less contrast in the file...and in this case I would prefer it because it looks too fake at default settings (plus adding a little CONTRAST and COLOR in post isn't very difficult). |
(None) | Nikon 55-200 VR | Panasonic G7 | Natural | LOOKS GOOD but need more sample footage to create and test the LUT. |
(None) | Olympus 50 1.8 OM | Panasonic G85 | [NEED ADAPTER] |
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The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.
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