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OVERVIEW: This is the Panasonic GX85, formerly one of the most underrated 4K cameras out there. I think it has one of the best IBIS systems available to date (even better than the GH5) probably because of the substantial weight of this little camera. It's got a small (2x crop) Micro Four Thirds sensor, but after testing it with over 50 lenses (mostly adapted vintage lenses) I can say it's capable of outputting pretty good 4K video (especially with my custom "lens-sensor specific" camera settings). This camera is a great budget filmmaking option and it's currently my preferred #2 camera (the G85 being my primary, because this one doesn't have a microphone jack). The image from the GX85 matches the Panasonic G85 perfectly, so the settings I use are almost always the same (this makes sense to me, because it uses the same sensor, with possibly slightly different image processing). The screen on this camera is one of the most accurate I've ever used, and it's good enough to make focus, exposure and even color judgements. The GX85 is VERY useful as an architectural (perspective control) camera because the rangefinder style design allows it to use a tilt/shift adapter (Nikon to M4/3) whereas the G7, G85 and G95 bodies cannot (due to the pop-up flash over the lens mount). MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? It's small, but it's heavier than you'd expect. I think this does help the IBIS work better, but some overly-critical YouTubers wish it were lighter. It's also portable in the sense of charging, because the battery can be charged using the Micro SD port...so you don't need to carry a charger (even though I do, as well as a couple extra batteries, because they don't last too long). I do run it from a power bank on longer shoots but remember to put it in "Silent Mode" if you do this (because some of the 5v to 9v upconverter cables don't always provide enough power). PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes. Almost all of the gear I am experimenting with is affordable, but this camera is especially affordable when buying it used (body only) though It can be a good deal when you buy it new as well, when it only comes in a kit with 2 lenses. The problem (for me) is I almost never use these two kit lenses for video (the 12-32, which has no manual focus option, and the 45-150 which only works well OUTDOORS because of the 5.6 maximum aperture). For my OUTDOOR TELE work, I almost always use a 1990s vintage Nikon-mount 70-300 lens anyway because of both the price ($30-$80 US) and the longer focal length. I don't use the AF on this camera, so I don't really mind using manual focus on adapted lenses like that one. The point is, the GX85 two-lens kit can be a really good deal new, but I don't need those two kit lenses, but you can sell them off and buy something else with the funds. PART 3: IS IT COMMON? This is a difficult question for me to answer, but I'll start by saying it's a lot more common (on the used market) than the GX9 (which is becoming pretty rare). The good news is the GX85 kit has been on sale almost every year (around Christmas) and so I'm guessing a lot of units have been sold, but it seems to be harder to find now than it was before...may be due to the fact that we've been told this type of camera is being discontinued by Panasonic. It's certainly not too late to find a used GX85 though (as of the time of this review) but the prices are going up, and it's becoming more of a collector's item than a bargain camera at this point. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? I've tested the GX85 right alongside the G85, and the quality of the output is identical (if you compare shooting in the NATURAL profile). The GX85 lacks a mic input jack, weather sealing and CINELIKE D, but I actually prefer the NATURAL picture profile, so I consider the GX85 the perfect 2nd camera to go with the G85. The 4K output on the GX85 (and G85) is pretty good (especially with my CUSTOM SETTINGS) and the IBIS is super good on both of them as well (but actually better on the GX85 in my opinion, probably because of the weight/balancing of the camera). PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? I would say the GX85 is an INTERMEDIATE level camera, as far as ease of use goes. It's not super easy to grip, and the AF isn't that good, but I use it on a dual-camera cage and use either touchscreen assisted focus or manual focus, so the old contrast-based AF is not a problem for me (it is slower as far as workflow is concerned though). In STUDIO circumstances, this camera isn’t the only option in this price range (I've tested the old GH4 and G7 in the studio too, and they work well). ON-LOCATION however, the IBIS of this GX85 makes it very easy to use (as no gimbal is needed, and smaller tripods also work well). I often say that my camera recommendations depend on the type of shots you're trying to get (static or moving) but because the IBIS on the GX85 is so good, there's not really much you can't do with it (including handheld stuff). The form factor of the camera doesn't work for everyone, and there are some negatives in certain scenarios (like you can't really do vlogging with it as the screen doesn't flip OUT) but overall I think it's a really good tool. Yes, the AF is the old pre-phase detect style (contrast-based) but my workflows have always been to use manual focus anyway, so I don't really mind. If you need AF, you'll need to get get one of the newer cameras though (S5ii, S5iix, G9ii, GH7, etc.) PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? Yes. I almost always shoot using a dummy battery and a power bank (and you MUST use only the electronic shutter with the adapters I have). That means the battery it comes with doesn't last that long of course, but with the power bank I have had the camera run for over 2 hours without a problem (and there's not a record limit, so that is good!) PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? You used to be able to find it new as a kit (with the 12-32 and 45-150 lenses) for a pretty good deal (and it would go on sale before Christmas)...but now it's getting hard to find it new because Panasonic said they were going to discontinue this line. Then, regarding buying it used, the story has also changed (of course). It was available (used) for around $300 US when I bought it, but the price has gone up to around $500. RECOMMENDATION: If I only had 2 cameras, this would be one of them. Notice I didn't say only ONE as I always shoot with (at least) 2 cameras...but this thing is so versatile, it would be one of the first cameras I would buy, and it matches the G85 sensor output almost perfectly, so those would be the first two budget filmmaking cameras I would buy. There's so much to say about what this camera can do, and I know my approach of using it with a TILT/SHIFT adapter isn't necessarily popular, but I think it's one of the best reasons to buy this camera (at the price point it's available for). REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: BASIC KIT Panasonic GX85 This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK No Portable? POCKET No CAMERA BAG Yes BACKPACK Yes Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE $ 1,067.28 *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE $ 462.49** **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Yes ON EBAY Yes Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL MEDIUM OVERVIEW: This is the Panasonic GX85, formerly one of the most underrated 4K cameras out there. I think it has one of the best IBIS systems available to date (even better than the GH5) probably because of the substantial weight of this little camera. It's got a small (2x crop) Micro Four Thirds sensor, but after testing it with over 50 lenses (mostly adapted vintage lenses) I can say it's capable of outputting pretty good 4K video (especially with my custom "lens-sensor specific" camera settings). This camera is a great budget filmmaking option and it's currently my preferred #2 camera (the G85 being my primary, because this one doesn't have a microphone jack). The image from the GX85 matches the Panasonic G85 perfectly, so the settings I use are almost always the same (this makes sense to me, because it uses the same sensor, with possibly slightly different image processing). The screen on this camera is one of the most accurate I've ever used, and it's good enough to make focus, exposure and even color judgements. The GX85 is VERY useful as an architectural (perspective control) camera because the rangefinder style design allows it to use a tilt/shift adapter (Nikon to M4/3) whereas the G7, G85 and G95 bodies cannot (due to the pop-up flash over the lens mount). MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? It's small, but it's heavier than you'd expect. I think this does help the IBIS work better, but some overly-critical YouTubers wish it were lighter. It's also portable in the sense of charging, because the battery can be charged using the Micro SD port...so you don't need to carry a charger (even though I do, as well as a couple extra batteries, because they don't last too long). I do run it from a power bank on longer shoots but remember to put it in "Silent Mode" if you do this (because some of the 5v to 9v upconverter cables don't always provide enough power). PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes. Almost all of the gear I am experimenting with is affordable, but this camera is especially affordable when buying it used (body only) though It can be a good deal when you buy it new as well, when it only comes in a kit with 2 lenses. The problem (for me) is I almost never use these two kit lenses for video (the 12-32, which has no manual focus option, and the 45-150 which only works well OUTDOORS because of the 5.6 maximum aperture). For my OUTDOOR TELE work, I almost always use a 1990s vintage Nikon-mount 70-300 lens anyway because of both the price ($30-$80 US) and the longer focal length. I don't use the AF on this camera, so I don't really mind using manual focus on adapted lenses like that one. The point is, the GX85 two-lens kit can be a really good deal new, but I don't need those two kit lenses, but you can sell them off and buy something else with the funds. PART 3: IS IT COMMON? This is a difficult question for me to answer, but I'll start by saying it's a lot more common (on the used market) than the GX9 (which is becoming pretty rare). The good news is the GX85 kit has been on sale almost every year (around Christmas) and so I'm guessing a lot of units have been sold, but it seems to be harder to find now than it was before...may be due to the fact that we've been told this type of camera is being discontinued by Panasonic. It's certainly not too late to find a used GX85 though (as of the time of this review) but the prices are going up, and it's becoming more of a collector's item than a bargain camera at this point. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? I've tested the GX85 right alongside the G85, and the quality of the output is identical (if you compare shooting in the NATURAL profile). The GX85 lacks a mic input jack, weather sealing and CINELIKE D, but I actually prefer the NATURAL picture profile, so I consider the GX85 the perfect 2nd camera to go with the G85. The 4K output on the GX85 (and G85) is pretty good (especially with my CUSTOM SETTINGS) and the IBIS is super good on both of them as well (but actually better on the GX85 in my opinion, probably because of the weight/balancing of the camera). PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? I would say the GX85 is an INTERMEDIATE level camera, as far as ease of use goes. It's not super easy to grip, and the AF isn't that good, but I use it on a dual-camera cage and use either touchscreen assisted focus or manual focus, so the old contrast-based AF is not a problem for me (it is slower as far as workflow is concerned though). In STUDIO circumstances, this camera isn’t the only option in this price range (I've tested the old GH4 and G7 in the studio too, and they work well). ON-LOCATION however, the IBIS of this GX85 makes it very easy to use (as no gimbal is needed, and smaller tripods also work well). I often say that my camera recommendations depend on the type of shots you're trying to get (static or moving) but because the IBIS on the GX85 is so good, there's not really much you can't do with it (including handheld stuff). The form factor of the camera doesn't work for everyone, and there are some negatives in certain scenarios (like you can't really do vlogging with it as the screen doesn't flip OUT) but overall I think it's a really good tool. Yes, the AF is the old pre-phase detect style (contrast-based) but my workflows have always been to use manual focus anyway, so I don't really mind. If you need AF, you'll need to get get one of the newer cameras though (S5ii, S5iix, G9ii, GH7, etc.) PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? Yes. I almost always shoot using a dummy battery and a power bank (and you MUST use only the electronic shutter with the adapters I have). That means the battery it comes with doesn't last that long of course, but with the power bank I have had the camera run for over 2 hours without a problem (and there's not a record limit, so that is good!) PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? You used to be able to find it new as a kit (with the 12-32 and 45-150 lenses) for a pretty good deal (and it would go on sale before Christmas)...but now it's getting hard to find it new because Panasonic said they were going to discontinue this line. Then, regarding buying it used, the story has also changed (of course). It was available (used) for around $300 US when I bought it, but the price has gone up to around $500. RECOMMENDATION: If I only had 2 cameras, this would be one of them. Notice I didn't say only ONE as I always shoot with (at least) 2 cameras...but this thing is so versatile, it would be one of the first cameras I would buy, and it matches the G85 sensor output almost perfectly, so those would be the first two budget filmmaking cameras I would buy. There's so much to say about what this camera can do, and I know my approach of using it with a TILT/SHIFT adapter isn't necessarily popular, but I think it's one of the best reasons to buy this camera (at the price point it's available for). These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .

...Still testing (not happy with settings yet). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 18-35 1.8 + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G7 CineLike D "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR 0 / 0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: ...Still testing (not happy with settings yet). The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.

This lens is AMAZING...it delivers so much contrast and color that I had to tone those down (to get a "REAL" image) and the SHARPNESS is almost a perfect match for this sensor (not to sharp, etc.) though I had to use some NOISE REDUCTION to keep things looking real. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 75-300 4.5-5.6 + ADAPTER (Non-Optical, NO BOOST) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" CONTRAST SHARPNESS NOISE COLOR OFF HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: This lens is AMAZING...it delivers so much contrast and color that I had to tone those down (to get a "REAL" image) and the SHARPNESS is almost a perfect match for this sensor (not to sharp, etc.) though I had to use some NOISE REDUCTION to keep things looking real. The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.

[TEST STARTED, but not complete] Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Minolta AF 50 1.7 + ADAPTER (Non-Optical, NO BOOST) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -1 COLOR -1+1 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS ? IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE ? IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR ? IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [TEST STARTED, but not complete] The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.

OVERVIEW: Putting a GoPro on top of your "real" camera is a really easy way to get a #2 shot... MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? Yes, it's portable (it's a GoPro)! PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? This version (HERO7 Black) seems to be overpriced, on both new and used markets, but that could change. PART 3: IS IT COMMON? The HERO7 Black doesn't seem as common (especially compared to the HERO8) but that's probably a good thing, and I recommend getting the HERO8 instead anyway. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? Regarding the image & video quality, the image on the HERO4 Silver is better...but the HERO4 is really good (for some reason). My theory is that the NOISE REDUCTION on the HERO7 Black is too aggressive. I've tried to fix it by setting the ISO MIN. and MAX to the same thing (ISO 200) and what I've been finding with this camera is that it seems to create the most non-processed image. One reason is it seems to keep the auto exposure (which is a combination of auto ISO and auto SHUTTER) from changing too abruptly, and this looks more smooth and natural. Also, I only use 2.7K on this camera (not 4K) so I can both shoot using the "Linear" FOV (Field of View) mode, and because shooting in 2.7K allows using "HyperSmooth" stabilization, which is essential, in my opinion. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? It is and is not easy to use, but mostly because I lock the ISO at 200 (but that doesn't always work well in low light situations). Also, if you want good stabilization, you can only use 2.7K (not 4K) so that's another thing to remember...that makes this version not as easy to use (get the HERO8 Black). PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? Yes, the HERO7 Black needs an OEM mounting frame (because it wasn't until the 8 they were built into the body). PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought mine used, on OfferUp. RECOMMENDATION: I don't think the HERO7 Black is worth buying, because for the price you can get a HERO8 Black which doesn't have a soft image like the HERO7 Black. REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: MINIMAL KIT GoPro HERO7 Black This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK Yes Portable? POCKET Yes CAMERA BAG Yes BACKPACK Yes Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE $ 239.00 *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE $ 99.99** **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Yes ON EBAY Yes Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL EASY OVERVIEW: Putting a GoPro on top of your "real" camera is a really easy way to get a #2 shot... MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? Yes, it's portable (it's a GoPro)! PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? This version (HERO7 Black) seems to be overpriced, on both new and used markets, but that could change. PART 3: IS IT COMMON? The HERO7 Black doesn't seem as common (especially compared to the HERO8) but that's probably a good thing, and I recommend getting the HERO8 instead anyway. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? Regarding the image & video quality, the image on the HERO4 Silver is better...but the HERO4 is really good (for some reason). My theory is that the NOISE REDUCTION on the HERO7 Black is too aggressive. I've tried to fix it by setting the ISO MIN. and MAX to the same thing (ISO 200) and what I've been finding with this camera is that it seems to create the most non-processed image. One reason is it seems to keep the auto exposure (which is a combination of auto ISO and auto SHUTTER) from changing too abruptly, and this looks more smooth and natural. Also, I only use 2.7K on this camera (not 4K) so I can both shoot using the "Linear" FOV (Field of View) mode, and because shooting in 2.7K allows using "HyperSmooth" stabilization, which is essential, in my opinion. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? It is and is not easy to use, but mostly because I lock the ISO at 200 (but that doesn't always work well in low light situations). Also, if you want good stabilization, you can only use 2.7K (not 4K) so that's another thing to remember...that makes this version not as easy to use (get the HERO8 Black). PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? Yes, the HERO7 Black needs an OEM mounting frame (because it wasn't until the 8 they were built into the body). PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought mine used, on OfferUp. RECOMMENDATION: I don't think the HERO7 Black is worth buying, because for the price you can get a HERO8 Black which doesn't have a soft image like the HERO7 Black. These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .

I do not recommend this combination. There are a number of reasons why I don't recommend this microphone/audio recorder combination, but the most important is that (at this "CLOSE" proximity) neither the +20 or the +0 work. The reason is that it doesn't work is the audio recorder (which is also a transmitter) does NOT have a way to set the REC. LEVEL, so the MIC. BOOST is the only way to set the level, but when you're at +20, the level is too high (it clips). What's also sad is that at +0, the audio doesn't clip, but it can't be boosted in post WITHOUT REVEALING A LOT OF RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). So essentially, this microphone/audio recorder combination does not work at this "CLOSE" proximity (around 3.5 inches or 8.89 cm). "CLOSE" Proximity [3.5 inches / 8.89 cm] 7RYMS iRAY DW30 (Recorder) (NO AUX. Amplifier) Shure VP83 (Shotgun) Windscreen: FOAM + FURRY (Stock) 48k 24-bit REC. SETTINGS N/A REC. LOWCUT N/A REC. LIMITER N/A REC. LEVEL AUX. SETTINGS N/A AUX. BASS N/A AUX. HIGH-LOW N/A AUX. OUTPUT MIC. SETTINGS MIC. LOWCUT N/A MIC. HIGH PASS MIC. BOOST (RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE LESS THAN 1.1ft / 0.34m BETWEEN 1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m BETWEEN 2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m BETWEEN 3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m Published: April 17, 2023 at 10:18:25 PM REAL RATINGS After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ. LOWS/BASS DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL? MIDS DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL? HIGHS/TREBLE DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL? NOTES: I do not recommend this combination. There are a number of reasons why I don't recommend this microphone/audio recorder combination, but the most important is that (at this "CLOSE" proximity) neither the +20 or the +0 work. The reason is that it doesn't work is the audio recorder (which is also a transmitter) does NOT have a way to set the REC. LEVEL, so the MIC. BOOST is the only way to set the level, but when you're at +20, the level is too high (it clips). What's also sad is that at +0, the audio doesn't clip, but it can't be boosted in post WITHOUT REVEALING A LOT OF RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). So essentially, this microphone/audio recorder combination does not work at this "CLOSE" proximity (around 3.5 inches or 8.89 cm). Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio. GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY

I am amazed at how differently this sensor (camera) handles this lens (compared to the GH4). As I mentioned in other reviews of this lens, it is inconsistent in terms of how it renders light. It's really interesting how much I was able to push the COLOR with these settings, and while you could tone it down a bit, I did it to show what the lens is capable of. It's a very different type of color than newer lenses usually produce, but some tend to like the more vintage feel. If you want to start with less color, go +1 (not +2) but if you upload to YouTube, you may still need that extra color (as of 2022 anyway). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Pentax Super-Takumar 50 1.4 ii + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE +2 COLOR -5+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Pentax Super-Takumar 50 1.4 ii Panasonic G7 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Pentax Super-Takumar 50 1.4 ii Panasonic G7 NATURAL -3+1+4+2 HS -5+3 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR D IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: I am amazed at how differently this sensor (camera) handles this lens (compared to the GH4). As I mentioned in other reviews of this lens, it is inconsistent in terms of how it renders light. It's really interesting how much I was able to push the COLOR with these settings, and while you could tone it down a bit, I did it to show what the lens is capable of. It's a very different type of color than newer lenses usually produce, but some tend to like the more vintage feel. If you want to start with less color, go +1 (not +2) but if you upload to YouTube, you may still need that extra color (as of 2022 anyway). The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.

REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: [NOT IN KIT] Aiworth E-36 This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK ? Portable? POCKET Yes CAMERA BAG Yes BACKPACK Yes Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE $ 49.99 *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE $ 26.95** **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Yes ON EBAY No Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL MEDIUM OVERVIEW: ... MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? Yes, it's very portable and is smaller than most of the audio recorders I've tested. PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes, it's affordable, but the price seems to change frequently. PART 3: IS IT COMMON? It is common when purchased new, on Amazon, but I haven't seen it anywhere else. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? I have to admit, this little generic audio recorder works REALLY well when used with the Shure VP-83 Lenshopper shotgun mic at the "CLOSE" proximity of 3.5 in. / 8.89 cm (but you must use the recorder in "line-in" mode and set the MIC. BOOST to +20. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? No, this recorder has a couple of major quirks, so it's not easy to use, but when you use my workarounds it can produce a good quality audio recording. The first quirk is the "microphone" mode DOES NOT MUTE the built-in mics when an external mic is plugged in. This means you get handling noise while recording, because you’re still using the built-in mics in addition to the one plugged in! This means you won't get the isolation you were looking for (by using an external mic). There is a workaround, and it is kind of odd, but it’s to use the LINE-IN mode. This attenuates the built-in mics enough to remove the handling noise (and still doesn’t mute them) but results in a very good recording, as long as you can boost the level enough. Strangely enough, this problem exists on every one of these inexpensive 1536 kbps audio recorders I've tested, but the quality at 1536 kbps is so good it’s totally worth the workaround! PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? Yes, if you're using this professionally, it needs some way to mount the recorder. I use 3M Dual Lock fastening tape. PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought this on Amazon. RECOMMENDATION: I don't recommend this audio recorder in most scenarios...the only thing I use it for is as a non-live podcast audio recorder (with a Shure VP83, at +20 db). These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .

WARNING: This adapter killed my camera (the Panasonic GX85). The way it happened was I was using the adapter with a Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX, and it first was showing lines on screen, and I completed the shot, and went inside and checked the footage, and the footage had problems too. Then I went out to shoot again, and it started having the problem showing the lines in the screen a couple more times, but a few times later, it did that AND the camera froze (so the power switch would not turn the camera off) so I then took out the battery. Now, the GX85 no longer responds to using the shutter dial, and the only workaround is for me to use the Panasonic Image App to set the shutter speed (and aperture if the lens is electronic). So, it's not working to well to use any more, and it's permanent. Oh, and I never took off the adapter while the camera was on (because I didn't want to get dust on the sensor) so that's not what caused damage. I’ve talked to a couple of other people who had the Viltrox EF-M2ii damage their camera too, so it’s good to be careful, but it might not happen right as soon as you buy it (it took 5 months for mine to have a problem). The lens I was testing at the time was a Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX, and it draws a lot of battery for the old-style autofocus, and that could be part of the issue, but the other people who reported problems with the Viltrox EF-M2ii were using different lenses, so I think the main problem is the adapter wasn’t designed in a partnership with Panasonic, so they didn’t know how to do it right. So, this indicates a problem with this specific combination (the Canon-mount Viltrox EF-M2ii, and Panasonic GX85, with Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX Canon-mount lens) The Panasonic GX85 was a great camera though, and I had used it for several years with no problems up until this point. The problem may be that the company that made this adapter...while they did design it for the Micro Four Thirds lens mount (so it does fit onto the camera) they were (and perhaps still aren’t) part of the Micro Four Thirds group which allows Panasonic (and OM System) to share the technical specifications they would need to design the electronics properly. So, they tried, but they didn’t work with Panasonic to make sure it would work…and the result is it ruined my camera (after a couple of years/hundreds of lens changes) so I’m just trying to warn people, so they don’t lose their camera too. REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: [NOT IN KIT] Viltrox EF-M2II This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK No Portable? POCKET No CAMERA BAG Yes BACKPACK Yes Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE $ 196 *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE $ 100 **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Yes ON EBAY Yes Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL MEDIUM WARNING: This adapter killed my camera (the Panasonic GX85). The way it happened was I was using the adapter with a Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX, and it first was showing lines on screen, and I completed the shot, and went inside and checked the footage, and the footage had problems too. Then I went out to shoot again, and it started having the problem showing the lines in the screen a couple more times, but a few times later, it did that AND the camera froze (so the power switch would not turn the camera off) so I then took out the battery. Now, the GX85 no longer responds to using the shutter dial, and the only workaround is for me to use the Panasonic Image App to set the shutter speed (and aperture if the lens is electronic). So, it's not working to well to use any more, and it's permanent. Oh, and I never took off the adapter while the camera was on (because I didn't want to get dust on the sensor) so that's not what caused damage. I’ve talked to a couple of other people who had the Viltrox EF-M2ii damage their camera too, so it’s good to be careful, but it might not happen right as soon as you buy it (it took 5 months for mine to have a problem). The lens I was testing at the time was a Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX, and it draws a lot of battery for the old-style autofocus, and that could be part of the issue, but the other people who reported problems with the Viltrox EF-M2ii were using different lenses, so I think the main problem is the adapter wasn’t designed in a partnership with Panasonic, so they didn’t know how to do it right. So, this indicates a problem with this specific combination (the Canon-mount Viltrox EF-M2ii, and Panasonic GX85, with Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX Canon-mount lens) The Panasonic GX85 was a great camera though, and I had used it for several years with no problems up until this point. The problem may be that the company that made this adapter...while they did design it for the Micro Four Thirds lens mount (so it does fit onto the camera) they were (and perhaps still aren’t) part of the Micro Four Thirds group which allows Panasonic (and OM System) to share the technical specifications they would need to design the electronics properly. So, they tried, but they didn’t work with Panasonic to make sure it would work…and the result is it ruined my camera (after a couple of years/hundreds of lens changes) so I’m just trying to warn people, so they don’t lose their camera too. These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .

(v3) I revisited this UNFILTERED test after testing the settings with both the Tiffen BPM14 and BPM18 diffusion filters (spoiler alert: I like the results better on those two). So, I am realizing that without diffusion, this lens-sensor combination is always going to struggle with overexposed highlights, in high-contrast situations (bright, sunny days). With that in mind, I do think the settings are better than they were before (in v1, v2) but now I will certainly use one of those Tiffen filters (see the CUSTOM SETTINGS for each one of those). (v2) This test is revised (from the original which didn't use Highlight Shadow compensation) and while it's a lot BETTER, I still don't really like this lens, because the color (and contrast) fall apart in non-standard, high contrast light. (When I say I "don't like" it, I'm comparing it to the other lenses I've tested, many of which are vintage lenses.) I think this could benefit from a diffusion filter, because it lacks "micro contrast"...but I will need to test it in the future. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Panasonic 25 1.7 ADAPTER: None (Native Mount) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -1 COLOR -4+4 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS ? IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE ? IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR ? IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: (v3) I revisited this UNFILTERED test after testing the settings with both the Tiffen BPM14 and BPM18 diffusion filters (spoiler alert: I like the results better on those two). So, I am realizing that without diffusion, this lens-sensor combination is always going to struggle with overexposed highlights, in high-contrast situations (bright, sunny days). With that in mind, I do think the settings are better than they were before (in v1, v2) but now I will certainly use one of those Tiffen filters (see the CUSTOM SETTINGS for each one of those). (v2) This test is revised (from the original which didn't use Highlight Shadow compensation) and while it's a lot BETTER, I still don't really like this lens, because the color (and contrast) fall apart in non-standard, high contrast light. (When I say I "don't like" it, I'm comparing it to the other lenses I've tested, many of which are vintage lenses.) I think this could benefit from a diffusion filter, because it lacks "micro contrast"...but I will need to test it in the future. The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.

While I still need to make a LUT (for final adjustments) these SETTINGS make this lens-sensor combination (including the Viltrox NF-M43x speed booster) produce very useable results. It could use a little sharpening and color added in post... Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 50 1.8 G + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -0 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: While I still need to make a LUT (for final adjustments) these SETTINGS make this lens-sensor combination (including the Viltrox NF-M43x speed booster) produce very useable results. It could use a little sharpening and color added in post... The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.

Test looks GOOD! May need LUT... Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 55-200 VR + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic GH4 CineLike D "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST -1 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -3 COLOR 0 / 0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Test looks GOOD! May need LUT... The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.