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View of Coulon Pier from inside tower with rounded stairway ©2025 SilverLight Photo Co. If image is black & white, final photos or videos are in post-production (check back). Coulon Pier from Right of Stairs < All Scenes Behind-the-Scenes SUPPORT US TO GET FULL BEHIND-THE-SCENES ACCESS (& PRODUCTION DETAILS) GET ACCESS GENERAL NOTES (Parking, etc.) *As A.I. (artificial intelligence) started sneaking into the photo & video production industries, I decided to go for 100% realism in my work. What this means for me, is to shoot for realistic-looking photos and video content. My approach includes using custom, lens-sensor specific CAMERA SETTINGS (and sometimes lens-sensor LUTs when needed). I never use A.I. to generate images, and I don't do tricks using Photoshop. There are adjustments I make to produce more accurate PRINTS but my goal is to limit editing as much as possible.

Coulon Park pier waterfront view by wall of lower restaurant ©2025 SilverLight Photo Co. If image is black & white, final photos or videos are in post-production (check back). Coulon Pier from Lower Restaurant < All Scenes Behind-the-Scenes SUPPORT US TO GET FULL BEHIND-THE-SCENES ACCESS (& PRODUCTION DETAILS) GET ACCESS GENERAL NOTES (Parking, etc.) *As A.I. (artificial intelligence) started sneaking into the photo & video production industries, I decided to go for 100% realism in my work. What this means for me, is to shoot for realistic-looking photos and video content. My approach includes using custom, lens-sensor specific CAMERA SETTINGS (and sometimes lens-sensor LUTs when needed). I never use A.I. to generate images, and I don't do tricks using Photoshop. There are adjustments I make to produce more accurate PRINTS but my goal is to limit editing as much as possible.

People walking near waterfront by big tree beach grass wooden fence in foreground ©2023 SilverLight Photo Co. The above content is 100% REAL (and no A.I. or Photoshop tricks were used to make it). Waterfront Walk by the Big Tree < All Scenes Behind-the-Scenes SUPPORT US TO GET FULL BEHIND-THE-SCENES ACCESS (& PRODUCTION DETAILS) GET ACCESS GENERAL NOTES (Parking, etc.) This is what everybody calls The Big Tree, and it's certainly one of my favorite things about doing photos & video at the Des Moines Marina Beach Park. I love how it provides beautiful compositional framing for just about any shot you want to catch...and especially how it changes throughout the year during different seasons. If I get a chance, I'll capture pictures (and video) in the different weather conditions. The waves can be fun to watch in mild windstorms! *As A.I. (artificial intelligence) started sneaking into the photo & video production industries, I decided to go for 100% realism in my work. What this means for me, is to shoot for realistic-looking photos and video content. My approach includes using custom, lens-sensor specific CAMERA SETTINGS (and sometimes lens-sensor LUTs when needed). I never use A.I. to generate images, and I don't do tricks using Photoshop. There are adjustments I make to produce more accurate PRINTS but my goal is to limit editing as much as possible.

bridge to Allentown over Duwamish River from park off Interurban in Tukwila ©2025 SilverLight Photo Co. If image is black & white, final photos or videos are in post-production (check back). Interurban Bridge to Allentown < All Scenes Behind-the-Scenes SUPPORT US TO GET FULL BEHIND-THE-SCENES ACCESS (& PRODUCTION DETAILS) GET ACCESS GENERAL NOTES (Parking, etc.) *As A.I. (artificial intelligence) started sneaking into the photo & video production industries, I decided to go for 100% realism in my work. What this means for me, is to shoot for realistic-looking photos and video content. My approach includes using custom, lens-sensor specific CAMERA SETTINGS (and sometimes lens-sensor LUTs when needed). I never use A.I. to generate images, and I don't do tricks using Photoshop. There are adjustments I make to produce more accurate PRINTS but my goal is to limit editing as much as possible.

View of Coulon Park pier with architectural stairway on left in scene ©2025 SilverLight Photo Co. If image is black & white, final photos or videos are in post-production (check back). Coulon Pier with Stairs (1/3 Frame) < All Scenes Behind-the-Scenes SUPPORT US TO GET FULL BEHIND-THE-SCENES ACCESS (& PRODUCTION DETAILS) GET ACCESS GENERAL NOTES (Parking, etc.) *As A.I. (artificial intelligence) started sneaking into the photo & video production industries, I decided to go for 100% realism in my work. What this means for me, is to shoot for realistic-looking photos and video content. My approach includes using custom, lens-sensor specific CAMERA SETTINGS (and sometimes lens-sensor LUTs when needed). I never use A.I. to generate images, and I don't do tricks using Photoshop. There are adjustments I make to produce more accurate PRINTS but my goal is to limit editing as much as possible.

Boat dock with sunset reflection on water ©2022 SilverLight Photo Co. The above content is 100% REAL (and no A.I. or Photoshop tricks were used to make it). Waterfront Boat Dock at Sunset < All Scenes Behind-the-Scenes SUPPORT US TO GET FULL BEHIND-THE-SCENES ACCESS (& PRODUCTION DETAILS) GET ACCESS GENERAL NOTES (Parking, etc.) This was one of the lens-sensor tests that surprised me most, because Micro Four Thirds cameras (such as this Panasonic GX85) aren't usually good at low light! I started by shooting with my custom, lens-sensor specific IN-CAMERA settings and then finalized the image with the custom LUT. To my surprise, it rendered both the subtle color gradients of the fading sunset AND the delicate blue tones of twilight really well. I'm so glad it worked! *As A.I. (artificial intelligence) started sneaking into the photo & video production industries, I decided to go for 100% realism in my work. What this means for me, is to shoot for realistic-looking photos and video content. My approach includes using custom, lens-sensor specific CAMERA SETTINGS (and sometimes lens-sensor LUTs when needed). I never use A.I. to generate images, and I don't do tricks using Photoshop. There are adjustments I make to produce more accurate PRINTS but my goal is to limit editing as much as possible.

waterfront pier at sunset with dark blue water and yellow sky ©2022 SilverLight Photo Co. The above content is 100% REAL (and no A.I. or Photoshop tricks were used to make it). Waterfront Pier with Yellow Sunset < All Scenes Behind-the-Scenes SUPPORT US TO GET FULL BEHIND-THE-SCENES ACCESS (& PRODUCTION DETAILS) GET ACCESS GENERAL NOTES (Parking, etc.) This shot was taken from the (at the time) newly-constructed overlook park that replaced a little house that was on top of the hill...I'm so glad the city made the decision to share this awesome view with everyone! If you haven't visited this spot, it's made of beautiful artificial wood-look deck material and it's big enough for the kids to run around (and still leave space for the photographers to stay out of the way, and still get some good shots)! *As A.I. (artificial intelligence) started sneaking into the photo & video production industries, I decided to go for 100% realism in my work. What this means for me, is to shoot for realistic-looking photos and video content. My approach includes using custom, lens-sensor specific CAMERA SETTINGS (and sometimes lens-sensor LUTs when needed). I never use A.I. to generate images, and I don't do tricks using Photoshop. There are adjustments I make to produce more accurate PRINTS but my goal is to limit editing as much as possible.

REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: ADVANCED KIT Neoteck NTK 059 Amplifier This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK ? Portable? POCKET Yes CAMERA BAG Yes BACKPACK Yes Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE $ 26 *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE ? **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Yes ON EBAY No Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL MEDIUM OVERVIEW: This is a portable headphone amplifier, designed to be used with older cell phones that had 3.5mm audio out. Yet, while these might be outdated for cell phone use (due to a current lack of 3.5mm output jacks) there is a really neat way to use these: as an audio BOOST for almost any 3.5mm microphone (I say almost because some require "plug-in power" which this amplifier doesn't provide). MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? Yes, it is portable. PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes, it's usually around $30 US or less, on Amazon. PART 3: IS IT COMMON? It's pretty common new (on Amazon) but there are a few other models from this same brand that seem to go out of stock more often. I prefer this specific model, because it has a LOW-HIGH gain switch, instead of a bass boost. PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? This part is amazing...it seems to create a very clean, transparent, low-noise output, which really helps because you're using it to boost audio from mics that may not be perfect, so it's nice to not add any noise to that signal. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? Yes, it's pretty easy to use, except for the old USB plug (don't put it in the wrong way!) PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? I do add a cell phone holder to it (so I can mount it to a camera hot shoe) but other than that, it works as is. PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought this on Amazon. RECOMMENDATION: If you don't mind adding another item to your camera rig (worry not, it's small and light) I think having one of these is super helpful. It allows you to boost the signal of almost any 3.5mm microphone without adding any bad noise. These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .

NOTE: For use with ATEM Mini, I'm adjusting the settings slightly: CONTRAST: -5 SHARPNESS: -5 NOISE: +3 COLOR: -0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW: OFF Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 18-55 + SHIFT (Perspective Control Adapter) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +2 NOISE -2 COLOR OFF HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Nikon 18-55 Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Nikon 18-55 Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -3-5+2-2 HS -0-0 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE D IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: NOTE: For use with ATEM Mini, I'm adjusting the settings slightly: CONTRAST: -5 SHARPNESS: -5 NOISE: +3 COLOR: -0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW: OFF My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

I was going to add +1 more color, and if you want a little more "character" and a more film grain look to the noise, try that, but I am stopping here, and it needs a LUT to finalize it (add color and remove a bit of contrast). I tested this lens-sensor combo WITHOUT THE BOOST previously, and those settings were in CINELIKE D. I'm trying the NATURAL profile out this time because it works both for stills and video...Also, I just tested the same vintage 50 1.4 D, and that lens has much better bokeh than this one. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 50 1.8 D + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE +1 COLOR -2+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: I was going to add +1 more color, and if you want a little more "character" and a more film grain look to the noise, try that, but I am stopping here, and it needs a LUT to finalize it (add color and remove a bit of contrast). I tested this lens-sensor combo WITHOUT THE BOOST previously, and those settings were in CINELIKE D. I'm trying the NATURAL profile out this time because it works both for stills and video...Also, I just tested the same vintage 50 1.4 D, and that lens has much better bokeh than this one. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

NOTE: Use -1 HUE. I think the final settings look good at most aperture values (and that's not easy)! It's interesting that it's actually sharper at f/2.8 than it is at f/8. At f/1.4 it's softer, but it looks really good, and that is where I think I would shoot (on this 2x crop, M43 sensor size) for video portraits, to have the right amount of background blur, etc. I also really like the amount of NOISE that is left in the image, as it kind of looks like film grain! Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: None (BARE) Koah 50 1.4 ADAPTER: None (Native Mount) Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE +2 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS D IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: NOTE: Use -1 HUE. I think the final settings look good at most aperture values (and that's not easy)! It's interesting that it's actually sharper at f/2.8 than it is at f/8. At f/1.4 it's softer, but it looks really good, and that is where I think I would shoot (on this 2x crop, M43 sensor size) for video portraits, to have the right amount of background blur, etc. I also really like the amount of NOISE that is left in the image, as it kind of looks like film grain! My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

It needs -1 HUE. STUDIO Settings: WHITE BALANCE: Flash SHUTTER: 1/160 CONTRAST: +3 SHARPNESS: +1 NOISE: +4 COLOR: -0 HUE: -0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW: -2+3 Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: None (BARE) Nikon 50 1.8 D Vivitar 2X (MACRO) Panasonic GH5 "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -1 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR -2+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT 22 RADIUS 2.2 THRESHOLD 2 Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: It needs -1 HUE. STUDIO Settings: WHITE BALANCE: Flash SHUTTER: 1/160 CONTRAST: +3 SHARPNESS: +1 NOISE: +4 COLOR: -0 HUE: -0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW: -2+3 My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.