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[TESTING...] Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Tamron 70-300 4-5.6 LD Di + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -0 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -3 COLOR -0-0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Tamron 70-300 4-5.6 LD Di Panasonic G7 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Tamron 70-300 4-5.6 LD Di Panasonic G7 NATURAL -3-0+3-3 HS -0-0 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE ? IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR D IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [TESTING...] My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

(NOTE: Test turning OFF Highlight Shadow for HDR still photos.) (Also, these settings are for WITH the Neewer CP Circular Polarizer filter, and WITH the filter I think NOISE REDUCTION should be set to +4, but WITHOUT, I'd put the settings at +5 because there is too much SHARPNESS without the filter). I had never heard of this lens until recently when I saw it at a local camera store (for a good deal). I've tested the Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX and the Sigma 18-35 1.8 ART, but I didn't know this one even existed! It isn't as "good" as the 18-35 1.8 ART (in a technical sense) but WITH THE CUSTOM SETTINGS I think it's doing a good job (and that's WITH a CPL/circular polarizer attached!!) Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER: Neewer MRC CPL Sigma 18-50 2.8 EX + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -0 COLOR -3+4 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: (NOTE: Test turning OFF Highlight Shadow for HDR still photos.) (Also, these settings are for WITH the Neewer CP Circular Polarizer filter, and WITH the filter I think NOISE REDUCTION should be set to +4, but WITHOUT, I'd put the settings at +5 because there is too much SHARPNESS without the filter). I had never heard of this lens until recently when I saw it at a local camera store (for a good deal). I've tested the Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX and the Sigma 18-35 1.8 ART, but I didn't know this one even existed! It isn't as "good" as the 18-35 1.8 ART (in a technical sense) but WITH THE CUSTOM SETTINGS I think it's doing a good job (and that's WITH a CPL/circular polarizer attached!!) My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

This lens-sensor combination is going to need a LUT to finish it, for sure. It's interesting, because I just finished a test of this same lens on the Panasonic G85, and it is so amazing how different these two sensors are! The GH5 has more SHARPNESS for sure and on the Panasonic GH5 this lens could use a diffusion filter (such as the Tiffen BPM or GG) not only to reduce the SHARPNESS, but also to preserve the highlight detail. I hope to publish more tests (with those FILTERS) when I can get to it. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Panasonic 45-200 4-5.6 ADAPTER: None (Native Mount) Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: This lens-sensor combination is going to need a LUT to finish it, for sure. It's interesting, because I just finished a test of this same lens on the Panasonic G85, and it is so amazing how different these two sensors are! The GH5 has more SHARPNESS for sure and on the Panasonic GH5 this lens could use a diffusion filter (such as the Tiffen BPM or GG) not only to reduce the SHARPNESS, but also to preserve the highlight detail. I hope to publish more tests (with those FILTERS) when I can get to it. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

NOTE: For use with ATEM Mini, I'm adjusting the settings slightly (as shown below): CONTRAST: -3 SHARPNESS: -1 NOISE: +4 COLOR: -0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW: OFF Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 50 1.8 AIS + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -1 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -2 COLOR OFF HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST - IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS - IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE - IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR - IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: NOTE: For use with ATEM Mini, I'm adjusting the settings slightly (as shown below): CONTRAST: -3 SHARPNESS: -1 NOISE: +4 COLOR: -0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW: OFF My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

For some reason, this lens-sensor combination, while not a "PERFECT MATCH" works really well together. Normally, this has been a REALLY difficult lens to work with (on the GX85, G85 and GH4) but this camera just has the right properties (whatever they may be) that create a very accurate image with smooth gradations through the 11 steps of the Zone System. I don't like this lens for field use (because it's too big and heavy to carry around on my multi-camera rigs) but I think it can be a great lens for INDOOR, STATIC use (for low light reasons as well)! This test was done with a straight (non-optical) adapter, but I hope to test this with a speedbooster/focal reducer in the future. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 18-35 1.8 + ADAPTER (Non-Optical, NO BOOST) Panasonic G7 CineLike D "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE +1 COLOR 0 / 0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: For some reason, this lens-sensor combination, while not a "PERFECT MATCH" works really well together. Normally, this has been a REALLY difficult lens to work with (on the GX85, G85 and GH4) but this camera just has the right properties (whatever they may be) that create a very accurate image with smooth gradations through the 11 steps of the Zone System. I don't like this lens for field use (because it's too big and heavy to carry around on my multi-camera rigs) but I think it can be a great lens for INDOOR, STATIC use (for low light reasons as well)! This test was done with a straight (non-optical) adapter, but I hope to test this with a speedbooster/focal reducer in the future. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

[TESTING...] Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 18-35 1.8 + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -4 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR OFF HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [TESTING...] My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

This lens is a 1990s vintage "TELE" kit lens (for Nikon mount). One interesting thing is it seems to be exactly the same as the Quantaray (of this same focal length). I started the test using the exact same custom settings, and the resulting images look almost identical. Also, both lenses have a 1:2 MACRO spec in the same exact focal length range (the macro lock engages between 180-300mm on both lenses). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Promaster 70-300 4-5.6 +ADAPTER (Non-Optical) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -1 COLOR -2+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Promaster 70-300 4-5.6 LD Panasonic G7 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Promaster 70-300 4-5.6 LD Panasonic G7 NATURAL -1+1+4-1 HS -2+2 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: This lens is a 1990s vintage "TELE" kit lens (for Nikon mount). One interesting thing is it seems to be exactly the same as the Quantaray (of this same focal length). I started the test using the exact same custom settings, and the resulting images look almost identical. Also, both lenses have a 1:2 MACRO spec in the same exact focal length range (the macro lock engages between 180-300mm on both lenses). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Initial test done, but need more footage... Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Promaster 70-300 4-5.6 + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic GH4 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -1 COLOR 0 / 0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Initial test done, but need more footage... My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

This lens is too sharp for this sensor, as with the SHARPNESS turned all of the way down (to -5) plus the NOISE REDUCTION turned all of the way UP (to +5, which I do to reduce sharpness even more when needed) the image still has a lot of aliasing. This sensor also renders more compression-related artifacts when a lens is too sharp (which adding NR can help with) but since we've maxed out those 2 settings, we're left with a lens-sensor combo that is bound to be a problem in certain lighting situations. This used to be a top-of-the-line telephoto zoom (it was the first AF 80-200 2.8 Nikon produced) and the build quality is excellent. However, the "focus breathing" is not good for video (image changes size as you focus, etc.) and lenses such as the Promaster 70-300 I've been using, are MUCH better for video (even though the aperture is not constant, but with this breathing, you can't zoom while shooting ANYWAY!) it's also heavy and slow to operate. It's slow because of the push-pull zoom, and because of the focus (there is a focus limiting feature that helps with that). Optically, it's a great lens, and though each lens-sensor combo usually needs some work to look its best. NOTE: With a non-optical adapter, I set the contrast to -2 (instead of -1). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 80-200 2.8 D + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -1 COLOR OFF HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS ? IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE ? IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR ? IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: This lens is too sharp for this sensor, as with the SHARPNESS turned all of the way down (to -5) plus the NOISE REDUCTION turned all of the way UP (to +5, which I do to reduce sharpness even more when needed) the image still has a lot of aliasing. This sensor also renders more compression-related artifacts when a lens is too sharp (which adding NR can help with) but since we've maxed out those 2 settings, we're left with a lens-sensor combo that is bound to be a problem in certain lighting situations. This used to be a top-of-the-line telephoto zoom (it was the first AF 80-200 2.8 Nikon produced) and the build quality is excellent. However, the "focus breathing" is not good for video (image changes size as you focus, etc.) and lenses such as the Promaster 70-300 I've been using, are MUCH better for video (even though the aperture is not constant, but with this breathing, you can't zoom while shooting ANYWAY!) it's also heavy and slow to operate. It's slow because of the push-pull zoom, and because of the focus (there is a focus limiting feature that helps with that). Optically, it's a great lens, and though each lens-sensor combo usually needs some work to look its best. NOTE: With a non-optical adapter, I set the contrast to -2 (instead of -1). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Still testing, but using the same settings as the Koah 35 1.2 is working pretty well. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Koah 50 1.4 No Adapter (Native Mount) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST +3 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE +2 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Still testing, but using the same settings as the Koah 35 1.2 is working pretty well. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Here are the cameras I have tested. I started out using extremely low budget filmmaking cameras like the Panasonic GH2, GH4, GH5, G7, GX85 and G85, and realized they could produce really good footage, as long as you found the "sweet spot" in each lens-sensor combo. So, I began taking notes of all of the CUSTOM IN-CAMERA SETTINGS that worked (to produce a film look) for each lens I tested...then I had to make this website (to access the information fast, while on-location). REAL CAMERAS Lens-sensor recipes for budget hybrid cameras. Our Method Panasonic GH5 Panasonic GH4 Panasonic G85 Panasonic GX85 Panasonic G7 Panasonic FZ1000 Action Cameras How I Adapt Old Lenses Are Filters GOOD? Best Budget "TELE" Lenses? "Always Shoot With 2 Cameras" Learn More: What Camera Settings Are Best (Differs for Each Lens?) Budget Filmmaking CAMERAS Panasonic LUMIX G85 This is the first camera I would buy, because it has good IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization) a decent sensor, weather sealing, a flip-around screen (for vlogging) and a mic input. The screen is pretty accurate (almost as good as the GX85) which I think is important when you're learning filmmaking (it helps you make focus and exposure judgements without the need for an additional monitor). GO TO SETTINGS AMAZON* #ad EBAY* #ad OFFER UP* *The Amazon, Ebay buttons are affiliate links (#ad) but the OFFER UP link just initiates a used item search. Budget Filmmaking CAMERAS Panasonic LUMIX GX85 This camera is a great deal, and is my preferred #2 camera (the G85 being the primary, as this one doesn't have a microphone jack). The image from this camera matches the Panasonic G85 perfectly, and so the settings I use are almost always the same (this makes sense to me, as it uses the same sensor, but slightly different processing). The screen on this camera is one of the most accurate I have ever used (and is good enough to make focus, exposure and even color judgements).This camera is also VERY useful as an architectural camera because it can use a tilt/shift adapter (with a wide angle) whereas the G7, G85, G95 cannot (because the pop-up flash overhangs the lens mount). I think the IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization) is better than the G85 (which is REALLY good) and this feature alone makes this an excellent pick. GO TO SETTINGS AMAZON* #ad EBAY* #ad OFFER UP* *The Amazon, Ebay buttons are affiliate links (#ad) but the OFFER UP link just initiates a used item search. Budget Filmmaking CAMERAS Panasonic LUMIX G7 This camera is good for leaving in the studio, but I don't like using it in the field. The lack of IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization) means you need a larger, heavier tripod (or gimbal) to use it effectively. Also, the inaccurate screen isn't a good tool for beginners who need to make exposure and other image judgements using it (instead of an external monitor). The GX85 and G85 screens are much better (but the GH4 screen is even worse than the G7). GO TO SETTINGS AMAZON* #ad EBAY* #ad OFFER UP* *The Amazon, Ebay buttons are affiliate links (#ad) but the OFFER UP link just initiates a used item search. Budget Filmmaking CAMERAS Panasonic GH4 I was almost done with the GH4 for a number of reasons (lack of IBIS, inaccurate screen, weird color) until I started seeing some of the best deals EVER (with the 12-35 2.8) showing up on OfferUp (I used to see deals like this on the GH2 and I'm super happy to see them again, now with the GH4). I don't like this camera for ON-LOCATION work due to the lack of IBIS (and the terrible screen) yet I still believe it's a good tool for studio work, so I began looking into it again after selling the first one I had. GO TO SETTINGS AMAZON* #ad EBAY* #ad OFFER UP* *The Amazon, Ebay buttons are affiliate links (#ad) but the OFFER UP link just initiates a used item search. Budget Filmmaking CAMERAS Panasonic FZ1000 I'm pretty close to being convinced that the FZ1000 is a truly professional filmmaking tool. After 2 years of testing, I figured out how to make this camera produce a "non-digital" looking image by using custom camera settings which you can find on my website . I would buy this camera before you buy an expensive telephoto lens because it is almost the same price. However, it isn't very good in LOW LIGHT, but it's a great OUTDOOR tool. There's more information in my article called Is The FZ1000 Good For (Budget) Filmmaking? . GO TO SETTINGS AMAZON* #ad EBAY* #ad OFFER UP* *The Amazon, Ebay buttons are affiliate links (#ad) but the OFFER UP link just initiates a used item search. Budget Filmmaking CAMERAS GoPro (HERO4 Silver or Newer) Putting a GoPro on top of your "real" camera is a really easy way to get a #2 shot. I would say the HERO 4 Silver is the best deal, if you don't need stabilization (which you don't need as much when it's mounted to the top of your camera). The HERO4 Silver is the oldest I would go, and if you need image stabilization, go 7 or newer (I think the 8 is the best overall #2 camera for super low budget filmmaking). GO TO SETTINGS AMAZON* #ad EBAY* #ad OFFER UP* *The Amazon, Ebay buttons are affiliate links (#ad) but the OFFER UP link just initiates a used item search. ALWAYS CHECK THE "USED" MARKET!

OVERVIEW: This is the Gerber Gear Suspension pocket-sized multi tool, the modern equivalent of a pocket knife, and as far as I can tell, it has everything a regular multitool should have...but just not everything I need for photo & video creation (so, I'm hoping to get some SmallRig tools). MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? To some, the answer might be yes, but as I've been trying to cut out everything I don't need (to save weight) out of my camera backpack, I've omitted this piece, because it's heavy. PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes, compared to the competition, it's a good deal...and I don't consider cheaper multi tools as competitors (only good ones). PART 3: IS IT COMMON? Yes, it's pretty common on Amazon, but the version I have may have been updated (so this exact one may not be as common). PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? No complaints here. The quality is good, actually great. In fact, it's so heavy-duty and well-built that my only complaint was how heavy it is. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? No, but I think that's a good thing for a knife (you don't want people using it as a quick-draw weapon or something). The good thing is it has locks on most of the tools, and the locks work well, yet they aren't easy to unlock, which is a good thing. PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? No, it comes with a belt-loop case, and that's all it really needs (the newer version may not include this, so I would check on that). PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought mine on Amazon. RECOMMENDATION: I don't need a knife, so I'd rather get a tool that is specifically made for filmmaking (& content creation) like the Film Riot ones from SmallRig. So, if you do need a knife, and saw, and don't mind carrying a tool that is pretty heavy, this seems like it should survive on-location use. However, I leave mine at home because it's too heavy to justify adding to my already heavy camera pack. REAL REVIEWS Long-term reviews of budget photo & video gear. KIT PLAN RECOMMENDATION: [NOT IN KIT] Gerber Gear Suspension 12-in-1 EDC Multi-Plier Multitool This image is 100% REAL, and no A.I. (or Photoshop compositing) were used to make it, and I know because I took it myself. Quality? LIGHT USE OK Yes MEDIUM USE OK Yes HEAVY USE OK ? Portable? POCKET Yes CAMERA BAG Yes BACKPACK Yes Affordable? AVERAGE NEW PRICE $ 58 *Indicates SALE price. Amazon AFFILIATE LINK AVERAGE USED PRICE ? **Indicates BUY NOW price. Ebay AFFILIATE LINK Common? ON AMAZON Yes ON EBAY ? Easy To Use? SKILL LEVEL DIFFICULT OVERVIEW: This is the Gerber Gear Suspension pocket-sized multi tool, the modern equivalent of a pocket knife, and as far as I can tell, it has everything a regular multitool should have...but just not everything I need for photo & video creation (so, I'm hoping to get some SmallRig tools). MAIN POINTS: PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? PART 3: IS IT COMMON? PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? PART 1: IS IT PORTABLE? To some, the answer might be yes, but as I've been trying to cut out everything I don't need (to save weight) out of my camera backpack, I've omitted this piece, because it's heavy. PART 2: IS IT AFFORDABLE? Yes, compared to the competition, it's a good deal...and I don't consider cheaper multi tools as competitors (only good ones). PART 3: IS IT COMMON? Yes, it's pretty common on Amazon, but the version I have may have been updated (so this exact one may not be as common). PART 4: HOW’S THE QUALITY? No complaints here. The quality is good, actually great. In fact, it's so heavy-duty and well-built that my only complaint was how heavy it is. PART 5: IS IT EASY TO USE? No, but I think that's a good thing for a knife (you don't want people using it as a quick-draw weapon or something). The good thing is it has locks on most of the tools, and the locks work well, yet they aren't easy to unlock, which is a good thing. PART 6: NEEDS ADD-ONS? No, it comes with a belt-loop case, and that's all it really needs (the newer version may not include this, so I would check on that). PART 7: WHERE DO I BUY? I bought mine on Amazon. RECOMMENDATION: I don't need a knife, so I'd rather get a tool that is specifically made for filmmaking (& content creation) like the Film Riot ones from SmallRig. So, if you do need a knife, and saw, and don't mind carrying a tool that is pretty heavy, this seems like it should survive on-location use. However, I leave mine at home because it's too heavy to justify adding to my already heavy camera pack. These reviews are just my opinion and are focused on my Q.P.A.C.E. packing method, so they're not comprehensive. I wrote these mostly to help me remember what items worked for my KIT PLANS (and which didn't). If I said anything negative I apologize, as these products still may work well for you in your situation, but they were not Q.P.A.C.E (Quality, Portable, Affordable, Common, Easy-to-Use) enough for my budget filmmaking KIT PLANS .