SEARCH  WEBSITE

The Panasonic G85 and GX85 tests almost always come out identical, but I tested this lens on the both just to make sure (again) and yep, they both work well with these settings (for this lens). Remember that it's always "lens-sensor specific" but because the G85 and GX85 keep coming out the same (test after test) I am going to start interpolating the results to either one (I'll explain more later). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 17-50 2.8 + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 NATURAL "PHOTO STYLE" -4 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -1 COLOR +3 SHADOWS HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: The Panasonic G85 and GX85 tests almost always come out identical, but I tested this lens on the both just to make sure (again) and yep, they both work well with these settings (for this lens). Remember that it's always "lens-sensor specific" but because the G85 and GX85 keep coming out the same (test after test) I am going to start interpolating the results to either one (I'll explain more later). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

[TESTING...] Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 18-70 + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST -0 SHARPNESS -0 NOISE -2 COLOR Standard HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [TESTING...] My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

So far, I cannot recommend this lens WITHOUT adding a Tiffen BPM14 (Black Pro Mist 1/4)... It is true that this lens has a lot of SHARPNESS and CONTRAST, but when used with this sensor (the Panasonic G85) it does not render a realistic scene. The corrections I am applying (to the NATURAL profile) include an interesting Highlight Shadow curve, but the shadows are still being rendered too dark, but it's the best I can do without making it obvious there was a curve applied. The result is still not as realistic as I would like, and this means it will be difficult to match the shots from this lens to a lot of the other lenses I use (and therefore the imperfect "Real Rating"). All of this makes me understand why people tend to use diffusion filters (such as the Tiffen Black Pro Mist series) on this lens...which explains why the person I bought it from INCLUDED one with it! I hope to test it with that filter, next. I will say that overall this lens is a very consistent performer as it was difficult to see the difference in quality at different aperture values (unlike like many vintage lenses). The downside of this is that it does lack what some call CHARACTER which is typical of Sigma lenses of this type, but adding the HIGHLIGHT SHADOW compensation does kind of add a bit more character to it (and if you've used the in-camera curves, you know what I mean). Also, a lot of people talk about how the skintones on this camera are too RED, and they certainly are with this lens too...but keep in mind it is the combo of BOTH the lens and sensor that render colors a certain way (I might actually go back to trying an old Minolta MD 50 1.7 with this sensor again, as that has a GREEN bias, which may compensate for this issue). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 30 1.4 No Lens Adapter (Native Mount) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -1 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -2 COLOR -5+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: So far, I cannot recommend this lens WITHOUT adding a Tiffen BPM14 (Black Pro Mist 1/4)... It is true that this lens has a lot of SHARPNESS and CONTRAST, but when used with this sensor (the Panasonic G85) it does not render a realistic scene. The corrections I am applying (to the NATURAL profile) include an interesting Highlight Shadow curve, but the shadows are still being rendered too dark, but it's the best I can do without making it obvious there was a curve applied. The result is still not as realistic as I would like, and this means it will be difficult to match the shots from this lens to a lot of the other lenses I use (and therefore the imperfect "Real Rating"). All of this makes me understand why people tend to use diffusion filters (such as the Tiffen Black Pro Mist series) on this lens...which explains why the person I bought it from INCLUDED one with it! I hope to test it with that filter, next. I will say that overall this lens is a very consistent performer as it was difficult to see the difference in quality at different aperture values (unlike like many vintage lenses). The downside of this is that it does lack what some call CHARACTER which is typical of Sigma lenses of this type, but adding the HIGHLIGHT SHADOW compensation does kind of add a bit more character to it (and if you've used the in-camera curves, you know what I mean). Also, a lot of people talk about how the skintones on this camera are too RED, and they certainly are with this lens too...but keep in mind it is the combo of BOTH the lens and sensor that render colors a certain way (I might actually go back to trying an old Minolta MD 50 1.7 with this sensor again, as that has a GREEN bias, which may compensate for this issue). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

While I think the CUSTOM settings are a better starting point than the DEFAULT (-0-0-0-0) settings, the custom settings aren't good SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) because they'll need more CONTRAST and COLOR added (this is the reason for the low REAL Ratings). The reason I think the CUSTOM settings are still good to start with though is that it captures more dynamic range and smoother gradients when there's less contrast in the file...and in this case I would prefer it because it looks too fake at default settings (plus adding a little CONTRAST and COLOR in post isn't very difficult). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 55-200 VR + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -1 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -2 COLOR -0-0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Nikon 55-200 VR Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 CUSTOM Nikon 55-200 VR Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -5-1+5-2 HS -0-0 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST C IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: While I think the CUSTOM settings are a better starting point than the DEFAULT (-0-0-0-0) settings, the custom settings aren't good SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) because they'll need more CONTRAST and COLOR added (this is the reason for the low REAL Ratings). The reason I think the CUSTOM settings are still good to start with though is that it captures more dynamic range and smoother gradients when there's less contrast in the file...and in this case I would prefer it because it looks too fake at default settings (plus adding a little CONTRAST and COLOR in post isn't very difficult). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

While I still need to make a LUT (for final adjustments) these SETTINGS make this lens-sensor combination (including the Viltrox NF-M43x speed booster) produce very useable results. It could use a little sharpening and color added in post... Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 50 1.8 G + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -0 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR B IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: While I still need to make a LUT (for final adjustments) these SETTINGS make this lens-sensor combination (including the Viltrox NF-M43x speed booster) produce very useable results. It could use a little sharpening and color added in post... My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

It is going to need a LUT, but these custom settings are making it look pretty realistic in a lot of ways (it has potential). This test is with a Tiffen BPM14 (Black Pro Mist 1/4) which I am trying because the SHARPNESS of this lens is more of an issue on the GH5 than it was on the G85 (which has a lower-megapixel sensor). So now, even with the diffusion, there is still too much SHARPNESS, but I am leaving the settings where they are, because the overall rendering is as realistic as I can get it SOOC (then the LUT will need to darken the shadows and add COLOR back in). Any links below are affiliate links. FILTER - Tiffen Black Pro Mist 1/4 Panasonic 45-200 4-5.6 ADAPTER: None (Native Mount) Panasonic GH5 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -0 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -1 COLOR -2+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 0-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT ? RADIUS ? THRESHOLD ? Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS A IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR D IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: It is going to need a LUT, but these custom settings are making it look pretty realistic in a lot of ways (it has potential). This test is with a Tiffen BPM14 (Black Pro Mist 1/4) which I am trying because the SHARPNESS of this lens is more of an issue on the GH5 than it was on the G85 (which has a lower-megapixel sensor). So now, even with the diffusion, there is still too much SHARPNESS, but I am leaving the settings where they are, because the overall rendering is as realistic as I can get it SOOC (then the LUT will need to darken the shadows and add COLOR back in). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

IMPORTANT: After having a camera's sensor get scratched (after dropping it with a speedbooster on) I don't recommend using speedboosters anymore on cameras with sensors that have IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization). The reason is that the optic sticks into the lens mount (more than an OEM lens) and if the camera is dropped, the extra force and motion of the IBIS sensor can cause the two to collide (thus scratching the sensor). This is not only a review of this vintage lens, but also a review of the Pixco focal reducer (specific to this camera) and so far, I like it! This speed booster is inexpensive, and though it DOES create lens flare, it doesn't look too bad, and can be controlled (with a lens shade) if needed. This lens-sensor combination (of the Lumix GX85, the Canon FDn 50 1.8 + Pixco speed booster) is a pretty good way to get an F/1.2 lens, for a low price. What's really weird about this lens-sensor combination is that, even with a LOT of NR (Noise Reduction) added, it is still producing a lot of NOISE. You might wonder how a specific lens could produce MORE noise than another lens (with the same SENSOR) but I think it comes down to what was done to the light before it reaches the sensor, and then the interaction of the sensor and the light affects how the sensor displays things. It sounds really simple, but each lens-sensor relationship is a little different. So, because the digital noise is not going away, what I'm attempting to do is to make it look like film grain (as much as I can). Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Canon FDn 50 1.8 +BOOST (Pixco Focal Reducer) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -2 CONTRAST +1 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -1 COLOR -3+3 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE DEFAULT Canon FDn 50 1.8 PIXCO Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 P1160538 CUSTOM Canon FDn 50 1.8 PIXCO Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -2+1+5-1 HS -3+3 P1160537 REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS C IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE C IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR D IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: IMPORTANT: After having a camera's sensor get scratched (after dropping it with a speedbooster on) I don't recommend using speedboosters anymore on cameras with sensors that have IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization). The reason is that the optic sticks into the lens mount (more than an OEM lens) and if the camera is dropped, the extra force and motion of the IBIS sensor can cause the two to collide (thus scratching the sensor). This is not only a review of this vintage lens, but also a review of the Pixco focal reducer (specific to this camera) and so far, I like it! This speed booster is inexpensive, and though it DOES create lens flare, it doesn't look too bad, and can be controlled (with a lens shade) if needed. This lens-sensor combination (of the Lumix GX85, the Canon FDn 50 1.8 + Pixco speed booster) is a pretty good way to get an F/1.2 lens, for a low price. What's really weird about this lens-sensor combination is that, even with a LOT of NR (Noise Reduction) added, it is still producing a lot of NOISE. You might wonder how a specific lens could produce MORE noise than another lens (with the same SENSOR) but I think it comes down to what was done to the light before it reaches the sensor, and then the interaction of the sensor and the light affects how the sensor displays things. It sounds really simple, but each lens-sensor relationship is a little different. So, because the digital noise is not going away, what I'm attempting to do is to make it look like film grain (as much as I can). My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

[TESTING...] Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Tamron 70-300 4-5.6 LD Di + HELICOID (Macro Helicoid Adapter) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST +3 SHARPNESS +4 NOISE -0 COLOR Standard HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: [TESTING...] My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

Known as the "plastic fantastic" this lens is a decent optic, for a not much money. It has a good close focus distance, and though the focusing ring is very thin (probably too narrow for focus gears to be added) it's somewhat easy for me to use when focusing by hand. I don't think the color rendition of this lens is very accurate. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Canon 50 1.8 ii + BOOST (Metabones XL .64x) Panasonic G7 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -5 SHARPNESS +2 NOISE -2 COLOR -0, -0 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: Known as the "plastic fantastic" this lens is a decent optic, for a not much money. It has a good close focus distance, and though the focusing ring is very thin (probably too narrow for focus gears to be added) it's somewhat easy for me to use when focusing by hand. I don't think the color rendition of this lens is very accurate. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

OVERVIEW: This lens, similar to its brother the Nikon 50 1.8G, is not easy to work with on this sensor (the Panasonic G85). When I started the test (at -0-0-0-0, HS -0-0) it had the same deep shadows that the 50mm had, and the same weird color rendering. I think these final settings make this into a lens that is a decent tool, but it will need both sharpening and color added in post-production (to look "REAL"). I might be able to correct some of the strange tonal range problems with the LUT, and I it's easy to boost the SATURATION of the color, but I don't know if I will ever get the color HUE to look accurate. This color issue is hard to describe, but it renders colors with a deeper tone than they really are, and some may like this, but my goal is realism (so this is not one of my favorite lenses). POST-PRODUCTION NOTES: This lens-sensor combination will need some post-production work (these are my recommendations): 1. Add SHARPNESS (in Davinci Resolve) 2. Create/add a LUT (see notes above) 3. Add my "YouTube COLOR Bump" (if you're uploading to YouTube) Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 35 1.8 G DX +BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -2 SHARPNESS +5 NOISE -0 COLOR -1+2 HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION 16-255 LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST A IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE B IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR F IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: OVERVIEW: This lens, similar to its brother the Nikon 50 1.8G, is not easy to work with on this sensor (the Panasonic G85). When I started the test (at -0-0-0-0, HS -0-0) it had the same deep shadows that the 50mm had, and the same weird color rendering. I think these final settings make this into a lens that is a decent tool, but it will need both sharpening and color added in post-production (to look "REAL"). I might be able to correct some of the strange tonal range problems with the LUT, and I it's easy to boost the SATURATION of the color, but I don't know if I will ever get the color HUE to look accurate. This color issue is hard to describe, but it renders colors with a deeper tone than they really are, and some may like this, but my goal is realism (so this is not one of my favorite lenses). POST-PRODUCTION NOTES: This lens-sensor combination will need some post-production work (these are my recommendations): 1. Add SHARPNESS (in Davinci Resolve) 2. Create/add a LUT (see notes above) 3. Add my "YouTube COLOR Bump" (if you're uploading to YouTube) My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

This lens is AMAZING...it delivers so much contrast and color that I had to tone those down (to get a "REAL" image) and the SHARPNESS is almost a perfect match for this sensor (not to sharp, etc.) though I had to use some NOISE REDUCTION to keep things looking real. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Sigma 75-300 4.5-5.6 + ADAPTER (Non-Optical, NO BOOST) Panasonic GX85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -5 CONTRAST -0 SHARPNESS +3 NOISE -2 COLOR OFF HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST B IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS B IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE A IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR C IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: This lens is AMAZING...it delivers so much contrast and color that I had to tone those down (to get a "REAL" image) and the SHARPNESS is almost a perfect match for this sensor (not to sharp, etc.) though I had to use some NOISE REDUCTION to keep things looking real. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

INDOOR test shot, need OUTDOOR. Any links below are affiliate links. [UNFILTERED] Nikon 18-55 + BOOST (Viltrox NF-M43x .71x) Panasonic G85 Natural "PHOTO STYLE" -3 CONTRAST -3 SHARPNESS +1 NOISE -1 COLOR Standard HIGHLIGHT SHADOW OFF iDYNAMIC OFF iRESOLUTION LUMINANCE LEVEL Unsharp Mask* ADOBE POST-PRODUCTION AMOUNT RADIUS THRESHOLD Blur / Sharpen DAVINCI RESOLVE POST-PRODUCTION LENS @FULL WIDE LENS @MID-ZOOM LENS @FULL TELE REAL RATINGS After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (S traight O ut o f C amera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras). CONTRAST ? IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? SHARPNESS IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? NOISE IS THE NOISE "REAL"? COLOR IS THE COLOR "REAL"? *Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings . These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings). NOTES: INDOOR test shot, need OUTDOOR. My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.