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Natural
"PHOTO STYLE"
-3
CONTRAST
-3
SHARPNESS
+3
-3
OFF
HIGHLIGHT SHADOW
OFF
iDYNAMIC
OFF
16-255
LUMINANCE LEVEL
Unsharp Mask*
ADOBE
POST-PRODUCTION
AMOUNT
33
RADIUS
2.0
THRESHOLD
1
Blur / Sharpen
DAVINCI RESOLVE
POST-PRODUCTION
LENS @FULL WIDE
.47
LENS @MID-ZOOM
.46
LENS @FULL TELE
.43
REAL RATINGS
After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras).

CONTRAST
A
IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"?

SHARPNESS
B
IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"?

NOISE
C
IS THE NOISE "REAL"?

COLOR
B
IS THE COLOR "REAL"?
*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).
NOTES:
IMPORTANT: One thing to note about the camera is that it really needs an ND filter when used OUTDOORS...but for some strange optical reason, it doesn't work with a VND (variable ND). It's interesting and somewhat distressing, but at the longer telephoto focal lengths a VND filter makes the image look so bad, you would have to try it yourself to believe it! It's even more interesting that a similar thing happens with a lot of the 70-300 lenses I've tested (also at and near the long end of the zoom range). My theory is it has something to do with the enormous amount of space between the optics when the lens is in the extended telephoto position. The solution I've found is to use a straight ND filter, and ND8 has been the best strength.
TIP: If you publish your videos to YouTube, use the below settings (for Davinci Resolve) to make it look REAL (YouTube strips out CONTRAST AND COLOR as of the date of this note).
YouTube SHADOW DIP (for Davinci Resolve):
This helps make SHADOWS more accurate on YouTube:
1. Create a new node
2. Go to Primaries
3. Enter -12.30 for Shad (Shadow)
YouTube COLOR BUMP (for Davinci Resolve):
This helps make COLOR more accurate on YouTube:
1. Create a new node
2. Go to Sat vs. Sat. (In Curves)
3. Drag shadows (left) dot to 1.23
4. Drag highlights (right) dot to 1.23
IMPORTANT UPDATE: These settings are FOR USING THE B+W F-PRO UV FILTER (and I have another test for when you're NOT using this filter). I really prefer the tests with this filter, but it occurred to me, that some people may not copy these directions exactly, so I created another test WITHOUT the B+W F-PRO UV filter as well. I think using this filter improves the micro contrast, which smooths the highlight rolloff as well.
ISO INFO:
I should also note that I've found ISO 200 to create the most real-looking image (maybe it's the "native ISO"?) So, if you can use ISO 200, I do recommend it (even over 125 and 160, even though they're lower, etc.) Also, the image degrades noticeably above ISO 400, though I sometimes go up to ISO 800 when needed, but be aware that it's going to look like it has more "film grain" (which isn't always bad (, but it won't match your other footage, if the other footage was shot at a lower ISO).
My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.



