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SILVERLIGHT

PHOTO & VIDEO

CO.

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Natural

"PHOTO STYLE"

-5

CONTRAST

-5

SHARPNESS

+5

NOISE

+1

COLOR

-3+3

HIGHLIGHT SHADOW

OFF

iDYNAMIC

OFF

iRESOLUTION

0-255

LUMINANCE LEVEL

Unsharp Mask*

ADOBE
POST-PRODUCTION

AMOUNT

?

RADIUS

?

THRESHOLD

?

Blur / Sharpen

DAVINCI RESOLVE
POST-PRODUCTION

LENS @FULL WIDE

 LENS @MID-ZOOM

LENS @FULL TELE

 REAL  RATINGS

After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras).

Greyscale Landscape

CONTRAST

B

 IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? 

Black and White Building

SHARPNESS

A

 IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? 

Lucid

NOISE

A

 IS THE NOISE "REAL"? 

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COLOR

D

 IS THE COLOR "REAL"? 

*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).

NOTES: 

Okay, this test is with the Tiffen BPM18 (Black Pro Mist 1/8) and I am super excited about the results. It's WAY better than using either the BPM14 or the UNFILTERED (BARE) settings. This is still going to need a LUT (to add COLOR, CONTRAST and a HUE shift, which I prefer to in the LUT, not with in-camera settings) but these CUSTOM SETTINGS get this to a really good starting point. Why are the results so much better with the BMP18 (instead of the 1/4 or UNFILTERED)? The first things is the 1/8 strength Tiffen Black Pro Mist pre-treats and diffuses the light enough to be able to use a less dramatic HIGHLIGHT SHADOW (-3+3) which always is going to look more realistic than pushing them further (we had to go up to -5+4 on the UNFILTERED/BARE settings to control the dynamic range).

My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

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