Natural
"PHOTO STYLE"
-0
CONTRAST
-3
SHARPNESS
+4
+2
-5+5
HIGHLIGHT SHADOW
OFF
iDYNAMIC
OFF
16-255
LUMINANCE LEVEL
Unsharp Mask*
ADOBE
POST-PRODUCTION
AMOUNT
NONE
RADIUS
NONE
THRESHOLD
NONE
Blur / Sharpen
DAVINCI RESOLVE
POST-PRODUCTION
LENS @FULL WIDE
LENS @MID-ZOOM
LENS @FULL TELE
REAL RATINGS
After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras).
CONTRAST
C
IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"?
SHARPNESS
A
IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"?
NOISE
C
IS THE NOISE "REAL"?
COLOR
B
IS THE COLOR "REAL"?
*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).
NOTES:
This lens has so much SHARPNESS and CONTRAST and it creates shadows that are so deep, it is difficult to get this to look realistic (with this sensor)! In some ways this is amazing, but in other ways it makes it a challenge to work with. To get the image to look realistic I am using the maximum HIGHLIGHT SHADOW compensation you can (bringing the HIGHLIGHTS down to -5 and the SHADOWS up to +5) and then I'm having to leave the CONTRAST at -0 (which I normally bring down a bit).
I do think there is another good thing about the amount of SHARPNESS and CONTRAST this lens has, and that is it should work well with the Vivitar 2x MACRO teleconverter which will reduce those attributes a bit.
My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.
