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HIGHLIGHT SHADOW
-2.5+3.5
iDYNAMIC
OFF
LUMINANCE LEVEL
0-1023
Unsharp Mask*
ADOBE
POST-PRODUCTION
AMOUNT
RADIUS
THRESHOLD
Blur / Sharpen
DAVINCI RESOLVE
POST-PRODUCTION
LENS @FULL WIDE
LENS @MID-ZOOM
LENS @FULL TELE
REAL RATINGS
After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic SOOC (Straight Out of Camera) or if it will need a LUT (to match the shots to other lenses and cameras).
CONTRAST
A
IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"?
SHARPNESS
A
IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"?
NOISE
A
IS THE NOISE "REAL"?
COLOR
B
IS THE COLOR "REAL"?
*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).
NOTES:
I'm very impressed with this camera so far, but it's the first LUMIX full-frame camera I've been able to test, so it's been pretty interesting (after testing so many Micro Four Thirds bodies, which I still like). If you've used the LUTs and CUSTOM SETTINGS for the other cameras we've tested, you will feel right at home with our process...but this has the option to use REAL-TIME LUTs (so we are going to have to create some new procedures to make sure these settings can work, with or without REAL-TIME LUT)...more information to come!
For the CINEPEER Weebill 3E
1. Make sure to open lens before calibrating gimbal
2. Make sure to flip out the screen (on S9) before calibrating
3. I mounted the S9 ALL THE WAY BACK on camera plate
4. The plate is positioned at 1.5 (on plate rail, for THIS LENS)
5. There are other adjustments (had to mark with a pen, for this lens)
The goal of our camera settings is to improve what we call the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color to create an image that looks less digital and more organic (more like film, etc). Therefore, the first step is to apply the custom settings while shooting, and the second is to add a lens-sensor LUT, to finalize the image.
